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A note of caution: most threadlocking compounds are incompatible with many plastics - they cause "crazing" and make the plastic brittle. Be careful! I use these: http://www.calebcomp.co.uk/products/heavyduty_serratedsafetywashers.html

I understand what you're saying, Denny, but what if one has one's sights set a bit higher than "a few stills" and "reasonable video"? Not yet :)

I think that's stretching it a bit. They are to be congratulated for moving away from the "flat-pack furniture" design approach, for sure. But they are a long way from getting my money (as a pro photographer) - the company and the product fail to measure up on so many levels. The existence of...

Disassemble the motor then try just pushing the bearings out using gentle pressure against the shaft. If that doesn't work, or the shaft comes out leaving the bearings in place, place the motor in a warm oven - about 80-90ºC for about ten minutes - that should soften any glue they might have...

Easy to find new bearings. The existing bearings should have a number on stamped on them. Otherwise just measure outside diameter, inside diameter and thickness (e.g. 11mm x 4mm x 5mm). Call SMB Bearings (http://www.smbbearings.com/) - you'll get straightforward advice and fast service.

Not enough info for a proper answer - but I would recommend getting familiar with http://www.ecalc.ch/xcoptercalc_e.htm?ecalc - lots of answer available from there for "what if?" questions.

Hi Augusto, Which Hitec servos are you using? Jeremy

Maybe go buy some lead diving weights to an equivalent weight of the Red and try flying to see what happens?

Many plastics are attacked by thread-locking chemicals - makes them brittle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=heavjPsXF1w#!

Maybe something like http://www.3m.com/product/information/Dual-Lock-Reclosable-Fastener.html ?

Recent discussion: http://www.multirotorforums.com/showthread.php?3355-Boca-bearings-upgrades-for-Tiger(Avroto)-motors.

Convincing demonstration :) I know I've been harping on about this, but I really am curious to understand the performance/behaviour of this gimbal - specifically the "16mm lens only" thing - and I haven't seen any clear explanation of it yet. That Zeiss 18mm lens is a lump compared to the 16mm...

On the contrary - those connections prevent a ground loop. When using multiple voltage sources you always must make sure that everything shares the same ground.

Ouch! That's going need some stitches! Thanks for the reminder :black_eyed:

Bolted ring terminals seem like a good idea and they can work well but there are potential issues to watch for: connections need to have the lowest possible resistance (for the lowest possible voltage drop) but ring terminals can introduce surprisingly high resistance unless the surfaces are...

I, too, favour straight soldering over using any kind of PDB. There are two ways to make it easier: The first is to strip some regular household wire and extract (with pliers) some individual strands of copper. You can then use these to bind individual pre-tinned ends together before adding...

http://servocity.com/html/servo_mount_gears.html Not sure whether Savox use a Hitec or a Futaba spline, but a quick google should turn up that answer.

I favour Anderson connectors. Not as simple and straightforward as ready-packaged RC connectors but they have many advantages. For a start, they are crimp connectors, not soldered. A few bucks up front for the necessary crimp tool and you're laughing: perfect, reliable connections in seconds...

Be careful with solid wire: movement and vibration will stress the joints and it will fracture remarkably easily. It belongs in the walls of your house, not really on a multirotor ;-) The common choie for RC apps is multistrand with silicone covering: multistrand for the flexibility (and...