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i'm trying to get a handle on what i'm trying to avoid. what i *don't* want is for any of the pin holes to be connected to any other pin hole. right? edit: okay, i went back and redoubled my efforts and was able to remove all solder from the holes. working on the no guts no glory theory, i...

snipped and wicked. half the pin holes are empty now, the rest have tiny bits of solder in them, but nothing on the outside, so i guess that's okay. i'm still nervous about connecting the battery up. should i be?

Bought a tbs disco with the core installed. but, well, uhm, i dropped a big glob of molten solder on it and crapped the whole thing up, and then, for good measure, i went ahead and melted the plastic vtx connector next to it. Yeah, yeah, I'm an idiot. In any event, I've built the rest of the...

more good advice. thanks!

thanks, will, that's an incredibly helpful and complete response. one question: is it *not* recommended that I use the gopro's battery or not rec. that i use the 5vlt lead? again, i really appreciate your assistance! edit: here's a picture of the done deal. found a vid on youtube showing how...

what? that's true about the open rx ports being able to power leds? if so, i just ordered a bunch of balance lead connectors to make splitters for voltage alarm / led connection. crap! but they weren't expensive, so it's no big loss. i'm using sbus now and would love to power the leds with...

I bought a cable from gothelirc to connect my gopro 3 silver ed to my fatshark, but being completely new to all this, i have no idea what goes where and so on. below are pictures. i was hoping to be able to remove the five-wire connector from the tx and connect the gopro cable up in its place...

thanks for that. when i opened nazza assis today, though, everything was working fine, just as it should, with the IOC switch working like it should, eventhough the s.bus lead was attached to X2. must have done as you said, the sbus somehow taking care of everything for me.

doh! I knew it! doh!-question part two: previously, i was using the x2 slot for the IOC function but since the s.bus cable now takes up the x2 slot on the naza, the IOC function no longer works. what ...do .... i .... do? think i'll just leave the manual mode on the three-way switch and see...

didn't want to start a new thread for such a stupid question but ... is the s.bus cable just a regular male-to-male lead such as i'm currently using b/ naza and regular channel slots in my rx? if so, doh! while i'm here. i'm a beginner and dont want to have manual on my three position switch...

or this, which i believe is a hakko knock-off and it does get good reviews. unfortunately, for me, shipping brought the 15 dollar item to around 30, but that's still less that half of the original. these are in stock in the US now, which is a rarity. so for those who live stateside, better...

try this: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1789552 . one thing, though: i think you're always going to have to fiddle with the settings a little, to dial things in. then again, if it won't hold in gps, maybe it's not the radio. do you have the declination right? have you done...

DJI Naza Flight Control v1.2 How-to for Spektrum DX8 , for DJI Multicopter 330,450,550 - YouTube that's the only one i could find on youtube but it doesn't seem to offer much. thanks for the tip, though. i will keep looking.

great. but if you do find what you were originally looking for, please post a link so i can check it out!

i believe this is what you're looking for: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1789552 am i right?

thanks a bunch, roger. i agree, that new connection is much better than my first try. and that one with the black cable is not as good -- nor are all the others, which is one of the hazards of buying used via the internet. guess i'll have to resolder them all for the peace of mind. hope i...

1/ what do you use to thoroughly clean flux off? 2/ how's that joint lookin to the rest of you? me, unless i hear further objections and concerns, i think i'm going to go with it!

well, my problem there is getting the two wires in place on the pad and then touching the iron to them without disturbing the pile o -wires. it'll never happen. so what i did was, i put down a blob, i soldered one wire on one side and the other wire on the other side. how else can you do it...

okay. i got the old blob off via the miracle of desoldering braid. put a fresh blob down and got the two wires soldered on looking like a single unit, more or less. my iron did seem hot enough; the solder melted instantly. anyway, have a look at the pix, fuzzy as they are. how's this one...

aw geez you mean i gotta take all those little screws out again? crum. let me ask you this. should i be attempting to remove all the old blob down to the pad and then resolder both wires? it seems to me that's the only way i'm going to get a good connection, right? p.s. thanks for the...