Zero UAV UAV Zero Steadi470


robone

Member
Rob what's the X4 like in comparison to the X6 I know there are differences in features but the basic stability and handling? john.

Hi John.....I haven't had the opportunity to test everything yet, and to see exactly what the differences are, but I am impressed with the stability and quality of the YS-X4. I see the main limiting factor being the maximum number of waypoints one can have. So I still see the professional who want or may need more than 8 waypoints, will still go for the YS-X6. But for the person who only wants to do some AP it will be perfect. When I set it up, it was definately a plug and play system. Maybe because I am so familiar with setting these systems up, but it was easy.....Rob
 

socratic

Member
Were you trying to take off in Manual mode or GPS mode? In any of the modes, the slightly off balance created by the gimbal should not have an impact.

If you takeoff in Manual mode, what I do is check the which way it is going to lift, and then as I takeoff, I compensate by moving the sticks. If you try and takeoff slowly, it may tip over.

If you takeoff in GPS mode, it should compensate as you takeoff and you should not have a roll over.

Yes, I find with most of these Flight Controllers, the faster you take off the better. I did try to compensate with, in this case left forward stick (in manual mode) but couldn't stop the roll overs. Some of the descriptions on the switch positions I find a bit confusing. The modes I have on my 3 position switches are: Manual, Manual Attitude, Auto Hovering, Auto Navigation and Back Landing. I assume that Auto Hovering is the GPS mode? Auto Navigation is for setting waypoints? And Back Landing is for Return to Home? Am I correct?

The gimbal was pretty vertical when I tried taking off with the weight - shouldn't have caused an issue. I will try taking off in GPS mode once I am sure that it is in fact the same as auto hover. Thanks.
 

johnno

Member
Were you trying to take off in Manual mode or GPS mode? In any of the modes, the slightly off balance created by the gimbal should not have an impact.

If you takeoff in Manual mode, what I do is check the which way it is going to lift, and then as I takeoff, I compensate by moving the sticks. If you try and takeoff slowly, it may tip over.

If you takeoff in GPS mode, it should compensate as you takeoff and you should not have a roll over.

Yes, I find with most of these Flight Controllers, the faster you take off the better. I did try to compensate with, in this case left forward stick (in manual mode) but couldn't stop the roll overs. Some of the descriptions on the switch positions I find a bit confusing. The modes I have on my 3 position switches are: Manual, Manual Attitude, Auto Hovering, Auto Navigation and Back Landing. I assume that Auto Hovering is the GPS mode? Auto Navigation is for setting waypoints? And Back Landing is for Return to Home? Am I correct?

The gimbal was pretty vertical when I tried taking off with the weight - shouldn't have caused an issue. I will try taking off in GPS mode once I am sure that it is in fact the same as auto hover. Thanks.

Hi Jim This was taken straight from the manual:
Position 3.
GPS Mode (Auto Mode), please check the instruction of CH6
position showing as blow to activate the sub modes in GPS Mode. Also can
operate this way: after capturing the middle position of the craft before takeoff,
set CH5 to position 3 and CH6 to position 1, then push THR stick and the craft
can take off automatically immediately.

It looks as though you can vertually take off without any input apart from throttle......Now I have 2 questions I powered my beast up and the Gymbal servos were chattering like crazy I have read somewhere about this but cant remember where so I disconnected for time being and powered up again getting 3 red flashes followed by 1 white what does this mean anyone?? John.
 

robone

Member
Some of the descriptions on the switch positions I find a bit confusing. The modes I have on my 3 position switches are: Manual, Manual Attitude, Auto Hovering, Auto Navigation and Back Landing. I assume that Auto Hovering is the GPS mode? Auto Navigation is for setting waypoints? And Back Landing is for Return to Home? Am I correct?

-Manual Mode 1 (Ch 5 switch pos 1 / Ch 6 switch pos 1) is actually Attitude mode and is perfect to fly with and take off with. I mostly take off and land in this mode
-Manual Mode 2(Ch 5 switch pos 2/Ch 6 switch pos 1) is actually Altitude mode.....I have found this to not work too well and sometimes could cause problems. It is not needed as you can accomplish everything with GPS mode, so IMO ignore this mode all together.
-GPS Mode(Ch 5 switch pos 3/Ch 6 switch pos 1) A lot of people only fly in this mode

So either take off in Manual Mode 1 or GPS Mode. The throttle movements in GPS mode are exaggerated and if you switch over from GPS mode to Manual mode 1, be prepared to add some throttle because it will drop, and also ensure that when you do switch over, that your throttle position is at least a 50%. because if it is less than 20%, it will switch the motors off (this is a safety feature)

Cheers
Rob
 

johnno

Member
-Manual Mode 1 (Ch 5 switch pos 1 / Ch 6 switch pos 1) is actually Attitude mode and is perfect to fly with and take off with. I mostly take off and land in this mode
-Manual Mode 2(Ch 5 switch pos 2/Ch 6 switch pos 1) is actually Altitude mode.....I have found this to not work too well and sometimes could cause problems. It is not needed as you can accomplish everything with GPS mode, so IMO ignore this mode all together.
-GPS Mode(Ch 5 switch pos 3/Ch 6 switch pos 1) A lot of people only fly in this mode

So either take off in Manual Mode 1 or GPS Mode. The throttle movements in GPS mode are exaggerated and if you switch over from GPS mode to Manual mode 1, be prepared to add some throttle because it will drop, and also ensure that when you do switch over, that your throttle position is at least a 50%. because if it is less than 20%, it will switch the motors off (this is a safety feature)

Cheers
Rob

Hi Rob, Correct me on this but I read that channel 6 didnt come into action until channel 5 was in position 3? , where your saying that 5/2 & 6/1 is man mode 2 or altitude mode, I am somewhat confused, and you reckon that a lot of people fly in 5/3 & 6/1? is that just being super cautious or what, can you tell me about my chattering Gymbal servos and my led that flashes red 3 times then 1 white. John.
 

robone

Member
Hi Rob, Correct me on this but I read that channel 6 didnt come into action until channel 5 was in position 3? , where your saying that 5/2 & 6/1 is man mode 2 or altitude mode, I am somewhat confused, and you reckon that a lot of people fly in 5/3 & 6/1? is that just being super cautious or what, can you tell me about my chattering Gymbal servos and my led that flashes red 3 times then 1 white. John.

Channel 6 does not come into play until you switch ch 5 to switch 3. I have got so used to writing that way, because it drums into peoples minds that they must not have ch 6 in any other position unless they intend using it. Can you imagine have ch 6 in sw 2 position and you by accident switch 5 to sw 3. If you have not set up your waypoints correctly your quad could decide to go and visit China.

Why are you confused? Altitude mode is Ch5 sw 2

A number of people fly in GPS mode because it flies well and you get the nest of both worlds. Altitude hold and pos hold.

Cant help about you servos chattering? or the lights. They change the light meanings often, and I have lost track. I think it is in the manual.
 

socratic

Member
Channel 6 does not come into play until you switch ch 5 to switch 3. I have got so used to writing that way, because it drums into peoples minds that they must not have ch 6 in any other position unless they intend using it. Can you imagine have ch 6 in sw 2 position and you by accident switch 5 to sw 3. If you have not set up your waypoints correctly your quad could decide to go and visit China.

Why are you confused? Altitude mode is Ch5 sw 2

A number of people fly in GPS mode because it flies well and you get the nest of both worlds. Altitude hold and pos hold.

Cant help about you servos chattering? or the lights. They change the light meanings often, and I have lost track. I think it is in the manual.

Apparently the servos chattering is the nature of the beast - noisy digital servos. However, I am also getting a constant twitching that is actually causing significant vibration to the frame. I think I likely need to turn down one of the servo adjustments in parameters/settings. Out of town for a few days, so will let you know if I am able to imporve servo noise and chattering. I too am still confused about how to find gps mode- manual says it is there but I don't see anything called gps -- maybe auto hover?
 


johnno

Member
Hi Everyone, Well I would today have had the simplest wifi connection I have ever had, I took my laptop hooked it up to the Router Powered up the Steadi470 in about 30 sec the laptop is seeing the steadi wifi directly not through the Router I couldnt believe this so I turned on the Tablet that I am going to use same deal I just had to put in the password and everything works full setup gps had 9 satelites in a colourbond garage which is pretty good I just cant believe it none of the issues that a lot of people are having or had there has to be something wrong, but its working motors run aileron elevator rudder and throttle all work!, anyone want a Router?....John.
 

PerryRC

Member
Johnno

The servo chattering was pronounced on my 470 too. I was able to get rid of it by lowering the gimbal settings in the parameters menu (PTZ roll, PTZ pitch). Suggest you start at a value of 5 and increment up from there. Ensure the gimbal is fully balanced in all attitudes before parameters are tuned and you should be good to go.

Finally have my 470 flying and filming. Very happy with the NEX5 and the 470 gimbal system. Once I found the ball park for the flight parameters, fine tuning was easy. Now adding a remote (rc) switch for the NEX5, and high res CCD camera and 500mw transmitter for video.

All in all while it took a while to setup, and tune but it was worth it.

Mark
 

johnno

Member
Johnno

The servo chattering was pronounced on my 470 too. I was able to get rid of it by lowering the gimbal settings in the parameters menu (PTZ roll, PTZ pitch). Suggest you start at a value of 5 and increment up from there. Ensure the gimbal is fully balanced in all attitudes before parameters are tuned and you should be good to go.

Finally have my 470 flying and filming. Very happy with the NEX5 and the 470 gimbal system. Once I found the ball park for the flight parameters, fine tuning was easy. Now adding a remote (rc) switch for the NEX5, and high res CCD camera and 500mw transmitter for video.

All in all while it took a while to setup, and tune but it was worth it.

Mark

Hi Mark, I found that to be the exact problem. This was 1st switch on and I haven't got the camera yet so I substituted some weight and I just didn't have enough, but the rest of the install has been a breeze wifi connection was straight forward in fact hard to believe, I am going to use the 900mhz data link when I can get it but overall it's been great I am just waiting to get camera and finish setup and fly.
A the best for Xmas and New Year cheers,John.
 
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PerryRC

Member
Johnno

Send me a PM and I will get you the parameter screens from my GSC (if you have any interest). Getting these parameter settings close to begin with will save you a couple of weeks of tweaking (and or crashes). Using the parameters as shipped, for me anyway, resulted in a multirotor that was VERY unstable and would literally fall over (fall out of the air) as the FC was not authoritative enough.


I was fortunate that I took the whole test flight process very slowly and all of my incidents did not damage the 470. I was also fortunate to already have a flying YS-X6 multi rotor so I knew the FC would work well once configured correctly. I can see someone not taking the same slow and low testing approach and having a major problem.

I now have a stable and reliable multi rotor that I can fly with confidence, while I have not flow in a strong wind yet, it does handle a stiff breeze (10 knots or so) very well. I have posted a quick video for you to let you know that on the other side of this process you can have a great multirotor that shoots stable high quality images.


Here is the short video from my Steadi470, https://vimeo.com/55812975


(I know seeing other folks video helped keep me going when I was working my way through this process :)

Mark
 

johnno

Member
Johnno

Send me a PM and I will get you the parameter screens from my GSC (if you have any interest). Getting these parameter settings close to begin with will save you a couple of weeks of tweaking (and or crashes). Using the parameters as shipped, for me anyway, resulted in a multirotor that was VERY unstable and would literally fall over (fall out of the air) as the FC was not authoritative enough.


I was fortunate that I took the whole test flight process very slowly and all of my incidents did not damage the 470. I was also fortunate to already have a flying YS-X6 multi rotor so I knew the FC would work well once configured correctly. I can see someone not taking the same slow and low testing approach and having a major problem.

I now have a stable and reliable multi rotor that I can fly with confidence, while I have not flow in a strong wind yet, it does handle a stiff breeze (10 knots or so) very well. I have posted a quick video for you to let you know that on the other side of this process you can have a great multirotor that shoots stable high quality images.


Here is the short video from my Steadi470, https://vimeo.com/55812975


(I know seeing other folks video helped keep me going when I was working my way through this process :)

Mark

Hi Mark,
Nice stable images the rig is certainly what they advertise it to be, yes I would like to see the Parameter screens as you say if it gets you in the ballpark from thereon is just minor tweaking, The Video where abouts are you is it NTSC or Pal is just has frame drop which happens in the NTSC-Pal t/fer if you are using the Sony 5N that is the 1st time I have seen images in situ from that Camera it isnt to bad.
Just one thing are there any close parameters between the two YS-X6's. John.
 

PerryRC

Member
John

I am using NTSC on the NEX5, the video resolution was changed (lowered) to post to vimeo, the full resolution better. I was attempting to show the stability of the Steadi470 gimbal.

The parameter settings between my YS-X6 and the Steadi470 in my case are very different. My YS-X6 FC is currently mounted on a F550, I am sure the airframe alone is driving much of this difference in the associated parameter settings.

I was however amazed how far off the out of the box FC parameter setting were on the Seadi470 as compared to where I am now. I have just received a power management module from Zerouav that I am installing on the 470, I am therefore rewiring the power distribution leads on the 470. Once I get it back together (next day or so) I will send you my parameter settings.

Mark
 

drjlsmit

Photogrammetrist
Hello everyone

I'm looking for some assistance with the setup and calibration of the Steadicam gimbal and have not found any useful information yet.

When I power up my Stedi470 AP, no power goes to the gimbal servos. I am not sure how to get these servos active and could use some help.

I am using a Futaba T8FG Super Tx and Futaba R6208SB Rx as well as the Androind App (connected via wireless router). I have the AP channels for A E T R connected to the Steadicam IMU and have connected the SBUS of the Rx to channel 7 of the AP. I've also connected channels 5 & 6 of the AP to their equivalent channels on the Rx (not sure if this is necessary or even wise).

The AP channels for Ext1 and Ex2 are connected ot the Steadicam servos (orange wires to the top of the AP).

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Regards
Julian
 

PerryRC

Member
drjlsmit

Here is how I have it configured. The SBUS receiver has one lead running from the receiver SBUS port to the AP (channel 7 port).

The second IMU is then connected to the AP via the AP AETR ports (see attached). One of the ESC's has a power wire (power lead) connected to the AP (preconfigured by ZeroUAV as shipped). Therefore when you connect the gimbal servos to the AP they receive power from the 1 ESC with the power lead running to the AP.

There should NOT be any other servo wires running from the receiver to the AP.

Hope this helps.

Mark

View attachment 8336
 

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drjlsmit

Photogrammetrist
Thanks Mark

That makes sense (no wonder they were not working as they are not getting power). It is odd though as theer is power supplied to the AP on the other side of the box at the P connector next to the LED one.

Now I was advised to cut the power wire on all ESC connectors; how annoying! I'll have to put together a new connector for M1 ESC.

Thanks
Julian
 

johnno

Member
John

I am using NTSC on the NEX5, the video resolution was changed (lowered) to post to vimeo, the full resolution better. I was attempting to show the stability of the Steadi470 gimbal.

The parameter settings between my YS-X6 and the Steadi470 in my case are very different. My YS-X6 FC is currently mounted on a F550, I am sure the airframe alone is driving much of this difference in the associated parameter settings.

I was however amazed how far off the out of the box FC parameter setting were on the Seadi470 as compared to where I am now. I have just received a power management module from Zerouav that I am installing on the 470, I am therefore rewiring the power distribution leads on the 470. Once I get it back together (next day or so) I will send you my parameter settings.

Mark

Hi mark, Ok on that I think the addition of the power module is a good idea I am going to do the same I recall some One made a comment earlier on about the time he got on a flight, thought that the machine might be a bit Hungary on consumption best to be safe than sorry.
Interesting how far the FC parameters had changed from the factory you would think that zero would put out some sort of amendment on that I feel they need a bit of a kick up the rear end with their customer support maybe one day...John.
 

johnno

Member
Thanks Mark

That makes sense (no wonder they were not working as they are not getting power). It is odd though as theer is power supplied to the AP on the other side of the box at the P connector next to the LED one.

Now I was advised to cut the power wire on all ESC connectors; how annoying! I'll have to put together a new connector for M1 ESC.

Thanks
Julian

Hi Julian, unless they have changed one ESC lead had Power from it the other 3 didnt, I like you read somewhere that no power was to come from any ESC and I was wondering why they would supply 1 only with power, very poor communication on there behalf, anyway we learn as we go.John.
 

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