cannot get motors to spin up after upgrading to latest 2.02 firmware and 1.8 assistan

Ian - are you still using a "Heli" based model? Those models have built-in mixes that the Naza will not like. Some include the throttle channel. I think you should focus on getting the Naza calibrated to an "Acro" based model as called for by DJI. If that simply will not work we need to find out why.

Jon

OK, that makes some sense to me as well. I will do a brand new acro setujp and see what happens using the 1.6 assistant first off. This thing used to fly just great which is why it is so weird. The only difference is the frame being used.

I will report back once I have tried a complete acro setup.

Thanks for all your feedback, it is good to know there is real help out there when you hit a real brick wall like this one.
 

kloner

Aerial DP
In every video of mine you ever seen, it has been lifting off in atti, when i do it has gobs of power, acts normal, etc. When i leave in atti its a huge disconnected feeling, i've seen it have zero power and fall,throw the stick up and nothing etc.

Your the one grounded with a craft that won't lift, but if you can, a 5 second shot in manual never killed anybody, just a few props. It gets up 2 feet, if it's tilted you don't even gotta correct it, it'll do that on its own when you flip to atti. i usually edit the switch out of my videos, but seriously, doing it for a year now, over 700 flights

As far as i can tell with three different nazas, it's just how they are

every one of these leaves in atti, i don't think there was even time to hit the switch yet
that was a couple afternoons,,,, not even all the flights from the trip, just boat based ones
 
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Hi Kloner
Right, did the brand new setup as an acro, and took a lot of care with th eATV settings for all of the gimbal axis, making sure they "just" got to both ends, and then a little bit more.

Presto, The damned throttle is working correctl again !!!!!!

Why that should be is totally beyond me. It is way to windy here today to take her out, so I cannot test fly her more than a couple of feet up im my hangar, but she seemed to have plenty of power, as indeed she used to.

Once I can test fly it, I will report back of how she goes. I still have get the IOC setup using a mix (which I hate using) but I haver the flight modes working correctly.

Thaks again guys, it looks like maybe I am getting there - with all your help !!!
 



Well, it seems that I was wrong about the throttle power !!

It was possible to try to fly it yesterday but it would only just lift off the ground in any mode, and was very twitchy in the air.

I have tried it using Acro and Heli models now, and both give roughly the same results.

I will setup another new HELI model and then film the radio setup and the assistant screens to see if any of you guys can spot something wrong. I prefer using the Heli setup becasue I can get the Fmode switch to work as my mode switch, leaving AUX 2 for the IOC. With Acro I do not have a spare 3 way switch.

For interest, when I was flying it all as an F450, I was using a Heli setup and it worked fine.
 

Jackella

Member
Hi Ian,1 servo heli swash mode works fine on your TX,same as me it makes the flight mode switch usable for Naza.
Seem to remember you had a lack of power a while back?
Old batteries or poor batt.connectors i reckon..:tennis:
Twitchiness yesterday could have been the blastin' wind we had here..even i didnt fly..:dejection:
 

kloner

Aerial DP
what kind of power connectors are you using? if deans, get me a macro shot of the metal bars inside the battery plkug and an outside macro of the plug on the craft
 

Well, here is the video you asked for. Please excuse the poor quailty on a couple of segments.

I hope it identifies my problem to some of you.?

http://youtu.be/rIklSgiArGY

My lipo is brand new, and I have checked the connections pretty carefully but will certainly try remaking the Deans plug with a new plug. Again, it is the same one that was working with the F450.

The one oddity I outline in the video is the movement of the throttle channel when I switch between modes. Should it do this ?

I have it setup as follows.
AUX3 -> X1 (handling gains)
AUX4 -> X2 (handling gains)
AUX2 -> U
PMU -> X3

Cheers
Ian
 
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kloner

Aerial DP
the way you have a throttle curve needs to be reset to normal that is 0 at low, 25% at 1/4, 50% at half, 75% at 3/4 and 100% at full. the curves probably change with the fmode switch is why the center moves around on ya

why is throttle 150% on h but the rest are 100, is that to make csr work? any chance you can bump that down instead of maxing it out to make work, can make it a few percent and get it started?

It looks heavy and it looks way underpropped as well, hence my first question in the post above
 

Jackella

Member
as Kloner says,set the TX all stock and leave it that way until its setup in Assistant and working.Then you can have a tinker with throttle curves.
 

MORE INFO ....

All up weight with GoPro and Lipo is 1800 gms
Lipo is a brand new 11.1v 2200Mah 20-30C, so Deans plug is good condition internally
I have cleaned and resoldered the male Deans plug on the quad.

I set it up with 100% ATV on all relevant channels, but had to take it to the full 150% provided by the DSX9 to get the sliders to travel fully in the Assistant (Latest 1.8 version).

It is getting weirder every day. I set it all up at 150% on all channels, reset the sliders and after a bit of fiddling, managed to get the motors to spin up. Manual control over Aileron and Elevator was then far to twitchy, so dropped DR to 60% on Aileron and Elevator. Now there is no motor spool up at all again !!!!! I used to have loads of DR on it last time around ?.

Waiting for some 10" props to come in to get correct lift, as current small 3 blades props only just get it off the ground.

I have sorted the throttle middle position change when switching modes shown in my last video by getting all the curves to be dead straight lines.

I have just noticed an even werirder issue. I have mounted a lipo checker on the top plate, and just noticed that as soon as the motors run up, the led's go right down to RED and then nothing at all , but when the motors stop, it goes back to 2 bars from full. To me it seems that this means that there is not enough power to even drive the motors correctly ?

More to follow when 10" props arrive (tomnorrow hopefully)
 

kloner

Aerial DP
the d/r makes your 150% like 85% so don't use that. to soften the stick try expo

the lipo checker thing doing that means your pack is smoked. tat's what happens when a lio dies, the drop there c rating,,,,,, and do what you noted, can't support any amp draw eventually
 

Hi Kloner

I would normally agree with you aboput the lipo, but I have tried 2 brand new Turnigy lipos, both do the same. Even a known good 2650 Mah does it.

Could this indicate a bad connection/strip in the power distribution circuit in the F450 board I am using perhaps ?

I cannot think of anything else. All soldered connections to the power distribution board have been redone just to be certain ?
Ian

the d/r makes your 150% like 85% so don't use that. to soften the stick try expo

the lipo checker thing doing that means your pack is smoked. tat's what happens when a lio dies, the drop there c rating,,,,,, and do what you noted, can't support any amp draw eventually
 

kloner

Aerial DP
it's hard to tell without a way to measure internal resistance

is there a chance the board is cracked? hold a light across it and just make sure there isn't something pysically showing that could do this...... very weird

show/tell us your low voltage settings
 

I just added individual jumper wires across all of the pads on the DJI board distribution board to be absolutely sure, and now the motors only turn about 1/2 rpm per second - this really is driving me nuts now. !!!!!

Whatever I do with this NAZA gear it just seems to get worse ? :upset::upset::upset::distrust::distress:
 

kloner

Aerial DP
show us a video of what you see.... if you can secure a volt meter to the top of the craft and have it in the tape when it is powered would help a ton. measuring the battery voltage
 



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