NAZA ATTI Mode Forward Flight Dives
- Thread starter brettskermetzger
- Start date
brettskermetzger
Member
When I first took out the naza I don't remember seeing any type of vent...i've just got it foamed to the bottom frame plate of my naza inside of everything else...
Im having the same issue with my f550 but much worse, even in hover it can sudenly dropped and i can hear the motors reduce its power. Tried messing with different gains, different baterry setup, recalibrate tx but no result until one day it dropped so fast and i didnt have time to recover. Broke one arm and got a crazy idea, remove the broken arm and another arm and change it to quad configuration. well, it worked ! no more suddent dropped in fff or hover. So im guessing its the barometric pressure sensor afterall. It doesnt have enough airflow or affected by the propwash to judge the altitude of the multi rotor correctly.
Thank you all for your advice and sorry for my bad english
Thank you all for your advice and sorry for my bad english
kloner
Aerial DP
the barometer is suppose to be out of the wind and sun, it is inside naza so if the unit is on the dog ear of the frame getting prop wash, it might not work as good as up inside the frame.
dropped so fast didn't have time to recover sounds like a calibration deal where mid stick isn't mid stick when clicked finish or in your case since ditching 2 motors helped sounds more like the battery didn't have enough oomph to run them all to max efficiency. less motors means less power but also less draw. I see you mentioned them, but i never heard what you had like 20c batteries that came out of my heli or was it new 40c packs, etc. logger ran on it to see the draws, list goes on and on.
My last build i took it out for a maiden and was drawing 40-50 amps hovering, should have been 20........ thought the thing was screwed up till got home and found the smallest piece of plastic rubbing on 1 motor shaft making it try to eat itself by making way more power than it needed just to keep up. honestly, flying it i didn't notice except the osd gauge showing me the draw and the packs that should last 9-10 minutes blowing out at 4 minutes deader than a doornail
dropped so fast didn't have time to recover sounds like a calibration deal where mid stick isn't mid stick when clicked finish or in your case since ditching 2 motors helped sounds more like the battery didn't have enough oomph to run them all to max efficiency. less motors means less power but also less draw. I see you mentioned them, but i never heard what you had like 20c batteries that came out of my heli or was it new 40c packs, etc. logger ran on it to see the draws, list goes on and on.
My last build i took it out for a maiden and was drawing 40-50 amps hovering, should have been 20........ thought the thing was screwed up till got home and found the smallest piece of plastic rubbing on 1 motor shaft making it try to eat itself by making way more power than it needed just to keep up. honestly, flying it i didn't notice except the osd gauge showing me the draw and the packs that should last 9-10 minutes blowing out at 4 minutes deader than a doornail
brettskermetzger
Member
So this is a stupid question...I've been trying to gain my quad with all of my gear on it (fpv/gopro/etc) I finally stripped it down and noticed the gains are a bit to high and the dropping went down considerably
Should I be gaining it without all the gear on? The quad still did drop but nothing like it was with the gear on it...I also replaced some bearings in one motor that seemed to be "grinding" but it still has a feel to it...I'm starting to think this is a motor issue
Should I be gaining it without all the gear on? The quad still did drop but nothing like it was with the gear on it...I also replaced some bearings in one motor that seemed to be "grinding" but it still has a feel to it...I'm starting to think this is a motor issue
kloner
Aerial DP
does sound that way or underpowered so when naza looks to add throttle, it just doesn't have the oomph to deal with it. You want to set up gains the way your gonna fly it. Are any motors hot after flying it?
when your chasing this kinda stuff, i'd put the altitude gain on a knob or switch so can try a few different gains under flight
when your chasing this kinda stuff, i'd put the altitude gain on a knob or switch so can try a few different gains under flight
brettskermetzger
Member
Well it seems that all the motors are a little warm after flight now with the 4s...they're not to hot to touch but they're quite warm...
If I put the gain on a knob and change it will the assistant read what it's at after I make the changes?
If I put the gain on a knob and change it will the assistant read what it's at after I make the changes?
kloner
Aerial DP
you assign a switch to the x1/ch6, set it to it's lowest setting wich you'll see show up after assigning and writing to the naza, when you move ch6, you'll see the gains go back and forth, mine was going 100-400 when first set then type in the lowest number you want with the switch at its lowest setting. mine is set to 120 at the lowest setting, 190 to the highest setting. you have to make that gap it does adjusted with the endpoints of the switch your using. think my endpoints are like 25% and -25% to get that gap. After changing the endpoint you have to retype the lowest number you want with the switch at it's lowest setting again. It's a little tricky to figure out the first time, but you get used to dealing with it. Right now mine are on ail,ele......... yaw and altitude on mine are fine
if it's not a sliding or rotary knob, use sub trim to set your middle number after setting the lowest with switch at it's lowest
if it's not a sliding or rotary knob, use sub trim to set your middle number after setting the lowest with switch at it's lowest