Mikrokopter Uncontrolled Yaw - SOLVED
- Thread starter Droider
- Start date
Droider,
Being a newbie, I apologize for this question and mixing of technology theories. Not sure if the gyros on multirotor FCs are similar to heli gyros but here's my idea. I had a crash and rebuild with one of my helis and had very similar constant yawing issues much like your Y6. After scratching my head for a few days, I found that the sub trim I had introduced for the rudder during the rebuild was throwing off the gyro (not sure if sub trim is even used in multirotor setups???). Probably helps to mention I'm using a JR9503 using DSM2. Well, as it turns out, when you first bind the rx with the tx whatever sub trim you have in there gets stored. The gyro sees that sub trim and assumes that's the zero/neutral rudder position. If sub trim is then later added without rebinding the rx and tx the gyro sees that as though the rudder is off in the direction of the sub trim that was added. The gyro then commands the rudder (or tail rotor, in this case) in the other direction. I could see this when I plug the batt in and the tail rotor drives to one side. Once I rebound the rx/tx the gyro worked perfectly. Again, I'm probably way off but also feel the pain of troubleshooting unknowns.
pootman
Being a newbie, I apologize for this question and mixing of technology theories. Not sure if the gyros on multirotor FCs are similar to heli gyros but here's my idea. I had a crash and rebuild with one of my helis and had very similar constant yawing issues much like your Y6. After scratching my head for a few days, I found that the sub trim I had introduced for the rudder during the rebuild was throwing off the gyro (not sure if sub trim is even used in multirotor setups???). Probably helps to mention I'm using a JR9503 using DSM2. Well, as it turns out, when you first bind the rx with the tx whatever sub trim you have in there gets stored. The gyro sees that sub trim and assumes that's the zero/neutral rudder position. If sub trim is then later added without rebinding the rx and tx the gyro sees that as though the rudder is off in the direction of the sub trim that was added. The gyro then commands the rudder (or tail rotor, in this case) in the other direction. I could see this when I plug the batt in and the tail rotor drives to one side. Once I rebound the rx/tx the gyro worked perfectly. Again, I'm probably way off but also feel the pain of troubleshooting unknowns.
pootman
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Yeh Ive checked that and for any weird mixing going on.. Just o0ff work so to the garage it is!
DAve
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Now loosing the will to continue.. I have now tried everything, even my old flight controller but to no avail..
I am seriously thinking of just scrapping the whole lot and taking up yachting..
So after a major boom like mine I am guessing that you just want to scrap the whole FC/nav.mag/BL's and start again..I think If I had bitten that built three weeks ago I would be up and flying again by now and at a cost on bucks but the stress of it all cannot be measured in buck.. Off to go drink beer coz thats all thats left to do for tonight and Ill have a rethink tomorrow...
I am seriously thinking of just scrapping the whole lot and taking up yachting..
So after a major boom like mine I am guessing that you just want to scrap the whole FC/nav.mag/BL's and start again..I think If I had bitten that built three weeks ago I would be up and flying again by now and at a cost on bucks but the stress of it all cannot be measured in buck.. Off to go drink beer coz thats all thats left to do for tonight and Ill have a rethink tomorrow...
Here's the approach I take when things get to this point, start from the beginning and one step at a time rebuild the entire configuration from scratch. Now I don't mean tear the entire machine to bits and start over though you may feel like doing just that with a large hammer right about now!
Start by reloading ALL of the firmware from fresh copies downloaded from the website in the Fatherland. Load just the basic mixer table for the Y6, then one tab at a time in MKtool change just the things that need to be changed for your particular setup, like which poti controls what function, leave all other settings at the default for now, DO NOT reload any previously saved config files. Next create a new model in the TX, change just the things that need to be changed like reversing channels that need to be, then bind the RX to the new model. You may need to disconnect the satellite RX and connect it to the main RX with a small nicad pack powering it to do the bind, whatever it takes to get the job done.
Lastly double check all motor directions in MKtool (with the props off of course!) and reinstall the props making sure each one goes where it belongs. Take the multi outside, take a really deep breath, exhale, relax, and bring it slowly off the ground.
If all that fails, before you take a hammer to it, box it up and send it to me and I'll make it behave...
Ken
There's so many unanswered questions it's hard to tell where to start.
Are the motors perfectly vertical? You have an unconventional Y6 mix right? Did you use the right one? Is the yaw compass (not mag compass...yaw compass) moving when the copter is still? Do you still have an I2C error? Which way does #3 ESC motor spin? Didn't you have a cranky motor? Is that on #3 ESC? Which direction does the cranky motor spin?
Like pappy always told me:
Son, Bitching and moaning won't fix the !@#^$%&* problem.
Are the motors perfectly vertical? You have an unconventional Y6 mix right? Did you use the right one? Is the yaw compass (not mag compass...yaw compass) moving when the copter is still? Do you still have an I2C error? Which way does #3 ESC motor spin? Didn't you have a cranky motor? Is that on #3 ESC? Which direction does the cranky motor spin?
Like pappy always told me:
Son, Bitching and moaning won't fix the !@#^$%&* problem.
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
There's so many unanswered questions it's hard to tell where to start.
Are the motors perfectly vertical? You have an unconventional Y6 mix right? Did you use the right one? Is the yaw compass (not mag compass...yaw compass) moving when the copter is still? Do you still have an I2C error? Which way does #3 ESC motor spin? Didn't you have a cranky motor? Is that on #3 ESC? Which direction does the cranky motor spin?
Like pappy always told me:
Son, Bitching and moaning won't fix the !@#^$%&* problem.
@Crash its a new day and had some thoughts in the night.. I will go through everything step by step again and try and do a proper staged diagnostics.. Thanks for the input and the humor.;-)
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Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Morning Bart.. yep studied them till I am blue in the face.. They match all my archeived settings that I took when I first got it.
I am going down the route Ken advised tonight.. not uploads just start a fresh. only a couple of weeks ago that would have been enough to throw me in to a panic attack, but after everything I have experienced these last few weeks it will be a breeze!.. I just hope it highlights something so I know I aint going crazzzzzzzzy
New day ...
Dave
Droider
Drone Enthusiast
So tonight I have started from the groubd up and remade all the connections to the PDB, Now it flies but!
I reflashed all the firmware in oder per the wiki but my mag3 stalls at about 52%.. I then read that once the firmware id flashed you should not do it again..... grrr.. Have I knackered it or is there a rescue procedure?
Dave
I reflashed all the firmware in oder per the wiki but my mag3 stalls at about 52%.. I then read that once the firmware id flashed you should not do it again..... grrr.. Have I knackered it or is there a rescue procedure?
Dave
So let me get this straight: You can not see any activity on the Mk3mag in MkTool? And you have already tried to reload the firmware several times?
If so, then the firmware is trashed and it's now too dumb to know how to take an upload. The bootloader should still be working though.
The bootloader on the Mk3Mag (and the other boards) is only able to receive a firmware upload for a brief period of time after bootup. It's somewhere under 1/2 second. You need to sync that time window with the time that MKTool is trying to push the upload to it. Does that make sense?
You could try powering the copter just after you click the button to start the upload. You could also try plugging the Mag into the Navi at that point.
The last thing would be to short across capacitor C3 with tweezers. That will effectively force a reset of the board and start the bootloader.
It may take several tries to get the timing window right.
It should be repairable though.
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Droider
Drone Enthusiast
Yep the MKtool just reports bad compass bearing, then no mag...
Sometimes after the bootloader starts it will only get to 13% before stalling other times to 52%.. There does not seem to be a way of a factory reset like on the FC so I guess its a tweezer set!
I am just waiting on a load of spares in which is some ribbon cable and plugs as the only way I can perform the uploads at the moment is by bluetooth.
In the Mag3 instructions for firmware upload it says to remove the jumper but if I do that it does not even start the booloader so guessing that the wireless connection may not be the best idea.
If I do get it to work will I need to , or should I recalibrate the compass?
Dave
Ahh, wireless for a firmware upload. That helps explain it. Never a good idea.
If you can still see the mag bootloader start the upload then you are in business and hopefully it will work when you use a cable.
I've been thinking.... if you still have problems, the way the compass is piggy backed on the navi, you will need to use a method that will either boot or reset just the compass and not the navi. Shorting the reset line to ground is probably easiest. The reset line is also brought out to the SV1 port on pin 5 of the compass.
If you can still see the mag bootloader start the upload then you are in business and hopefully it will work when you use a cable.
I've been thinking.... if you still have problems, the way the compass is piggy backed on the navi, you will need to use a method that will either boot or reset just the compass and not the navi. Shorting the reset line to ground is probably easiest. The reset line is also brought out to the SV1 port on pin 5 of the compass.