Zero UAV Zero UAV y6p need motor and ESC
- Thread starter john420
- Start date
mongo
lost soul
kit
http://www.rctimer.com/product_809.html
motors
http://www.rctimer.com/product_848.html
ESC
http://www.rctimer.com/product_850.html
prop
http://www.rctimer.com/product_777.html
i have the above, set up as Y-6 config.
easy to assemble and minimal soldering required.
http://www.rctimer.com/product_809.html
motors
http://www.rctimer.com/product_848.html
ESC
http://www.rctimer.com/product_850.html
prop
http://www.rctimer.com/product_777.html
i have the above, set up as Y-6 config.
easy to assemble and minimal soldering required.
some one suggested me the T-motor and Esc does any one got those ??
PeterLester
Member
Keep in mind that MR airframe can accomodate props up to 15" x 5p. This means that you can also consider the Turnigy Multistar 4830 420KV motors.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._4830_420Kv_22Pole_Multi_Rotor_Outrunner.html
these can be more efficient to give you more airtime depending upon your AUW....
and the following ESCs
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...Amp_Multi_rotor_Brushless_ESC_2_6S_OPTO_.html
I made these choices on the basis of ECalc for multrotors results.
Initially I chose undersized motors and props for this diameter of MR airframe and I was not able to get WooKong M controller configured to eliminate in flight wobble except when there was absolutely no wind or breeze.
I believe the motors were not able to respond fast enough to stay ahead of wobble tendency.......and/or the controller design would not allow Basic and Attitude Gains (PID loops) to get ahead of the wobbling.
Keep in mind that many motors including those mentioned above do not have mounting holes that align with those provided in the RCT800 motor arms.
Also if I understand the ZeroUAV controller offering correctly, these are much larger in size than the WooKong M and NAZA controllers such that you may need to make significant modifications to the RCT800 airframe to mount these above and below the airframe (not inside)....
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/..._4830_420Kv_22Pole_Multi_Rotor_Outrunner.html
these can be more efficient to give you more airtime depending upon your AUW....
and the following ESCs
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...Amp_Multi_rotor_Brushless_ESC_2_6S_OPTO_.html
I made these choices on the basis of ECalc for multrotors results.
Initially I chose undersized motors and props for this diameter of MR airframe and I was not able to get WooKong M controller configured to eliminate in flight wobble except when there was absolutely no wind or breeze.
I believe the motors were not able to respond fast enough to stay ahead of wobble tendency.......and/or the controller design would not allow Basic and Attitude Gains (PID loops) to get ahead of the wobbling.
Keep in mind that many motors including those mentioned above do not have mounting holes that align with those provided in the RCT800 motor arms.
Also if I understand the ZeroUAV controller offering correctly, these are much larger in size than the WooKong M and NAZA controllers such that you may need to make significant modifications to the RCT800 airframe to mount these above and below the airframe (not inside)....
mongo
lost soul
the motors mentioned in my post above do have mounting holes that line up with the rct800 arms.
that is why i chose them, no drilling, taping, or hunting for suitable adapters required.
also liked the long leads that reach all the way to the inside the frame mounted ESCs.
the YS x-4,x-6 while larger in footprint than an naza, are not noticeably higher than the naza, and will fit between the frames of the rct 800, if that is where you want to mount them. i used a second set of mainframe plates in order to mount the fcu away from the distribution of power board integral with the lower frame plate. probably a good idea with any controller. also used the extra plate from that second set to make a LG mount below the power distro that raises the copter up so that the bottom 3 motors of my Y-6 configuration had more ground clearance. coupla quick photos to illustrate. have no video of it flying as yet, and all the video from it is proprietary. when it cools off a bit here, been toping out at 50-51c lately, i will get someone to video it flying.
i use 4s 3000 mah in config shown. go to 4s 6000 or 5s 5000 when carrying a cam. also go to 14 5 props when loaded.
that is why i chose them, no drilling, taping, or hunting for suitable adapters required.
also liked the long leads that reach all the way to the inside the frame mounted ESCs.
the YS x-4,x-6 while larger in footprint than an naza, are not noticeably higher than the naza, and will fit between the frames of the rct 800, if that is where you want to mount them. i used a second set of mainframe plates in order to mount the fcu away from the distribution of power board integral with the lower frame plate. probably a good idea with any controller. also used the extra plate from that second set to make a LG mount below the power distro that raises the copter up so that the bottom 3 motors of my Y-6 configuration had more ground clearance. coupla quick photos to illustrate. have no video of it flying as yet, and all the video from it is proprietary. when it cools off a bit here, been toping out at 50-51c lately, i will get someone to video it flying.
i use 4s 3000 mah in config shown. go to 4s 6000 or 5s 5000 when carrying a cam. also go to 14 5 props when loaded.
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But the frame can not be folded I need some frame that can be folded like this link and do u think the motor mount is standard and fit all other frames I watched some You tub video and some people complained about that motor
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/TAROT-FY680-...Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58a2f3c61a
mongo
lost soul
the motors in my above post have 2 mounting holes on a 16mm bolt circle and 2 holes on a 19 mm circle. can't really tell from that add just what the mounts on that tarot frame has. would be surprised if it has something different though. 2 at 16 and 2 at 19 is kinda standard for smaller can motors, some of the larger mounts are 3 at 27 mm circle. the rct arms have all 3 of those options, and from the pics, it looks sorta like the tarot does too. but without hands on with one to measure, i am not going to commit to that.
a frame with more features, like folding and included landing gear is more expensive, as you have probably noticed. with my big, 1 ton, pickup, folding frame not an issue for me.
i not a big viewer of videos, on you tube or elsewhere.
a frame with more features, like folding and included landing gear is more expensive, as you have probably noticed. with my big, 1 ton, pickup, folding frame not an issue for me.
i not a big viewer of videos, on you tube or elsewhere.
Does the motor or ESC get worm after 10-20min flying and do u get any glitch anything like that ever. ? Thanks Bro
mongo
lost soul
haven't had a glitch in any of my R/C stuff since switching to PCM systems back in 1986. never had a hold or lockout with any system either.
haven't used a temp gun, i no have one, but after a full flight, avg 12-14 min, nothing i could put my hand on was much over ambient temp. motors/ESCs/batteries.
now, if you are just looking around, researching what is the best of frames, motors, ESCs,, my advise to ya is just go ahead and buy what looks good to ya. like anything else, you can waste a lot of time trying to get the BEST, only to have that change a week or so after you get yours. i would not get something that a LOT of folks are having problems with, but something that only one or two folks report problems with is most likely ok. if ya got folks flying copters in yer area, get with them and pick their brains for what has and has not worked for them.
the important thing is to get something, and get started flying it, and learning just what you really want, not what you thought you wanted.
haven't used a temp gun, i no have one, but after a full flight, avg 12-14 min, nothing i could put my hand on was much over ambient temp. motors/ESCs/batteries.
now, if you are just looking around, researching what is the best of frames, motors, ESCs,, my advise to ya is just go ahead and buy what looks good to ya. like anything else, you can waste a lot of time trying to get the BEST, only to have that change a week or so after you get yours. i would not get something that a LOT of folks are having problems with, but something that only one or two folks report problems with is most likely ok. if ya got folks flying copters in yer area, get with them and pick their brains for what has and has not worked for them.
the important thing is to get something, and get started flying it, and learning just what you really want, not what you thought you wanted.
mongo
lost soul
i no use 3s with this set up. 4s mostly and sometimes 5s. i get about 12 min out of a 4s 4000, with a go pro, board cam, eagle tree with osd, guardian, gps, baro alt, and such on board, and a 400 mw 5.8 tx.
if all you carry is a board type camera and one of the mini tx, you could probably get away with 3s and 12 inch props. flight time is almost purely a matter of MAH size of the battery for any given voltage rating. 2200 short flights 4400 longer flights, 6600 even longer.
if all you carry is a board type camera and one of the mini tx, you could probably get away with 3s and 12 inch props. flight time is almost purely a matter of MAH size of the battery for any given voltage rating. 2200 short flights 4400 longer flights, 6600 even longer.