Want to change DJI ESC over to bigger amp ESC

bensid54

Member
I have a Naza M lite control system on my "Y" 6 multi rotor and I want to increase the ESC amperage. Now if I remember right the Naza has it's own bec and adding more becs to the mix normally fries things. I believe you can disable the bec on the motor ESCs by removing the plugs red wire but I can't remember if the ESC will still work. Anyone have the answer?
 

Hexacrafter

Manufacturer
DJI Flight controllers do not allow power from a ESC BEC. So the use of OPTO or Non-BEC ESC is one solution. The other is to remove the RED (5v power) wire from the ESC servo plug. Please be advised that you will need to perform the ESC throttle calibration via the RX BEFORE removing the RED power wire.
 



Hexacrafter

Manufacturer
Our experience with T-Motor ESC is that they will not do a throttle calibration without the RED power wire. We had several clients try without and no calibration...... we now tell all to keep the RED wire intact until the calibration is complete. I assume this is then true for most BEC ESC.
 


Hexacrafter

Manufacturer
It is a simple solution to make sure a client does not have any issues. During the ESC calibration, some ESC are very sensitive to whether they get ESC main power without an RX signal. This is a problem when powering the RX from a different battery than the ESC and powering the ESC without a signal can immediately cause the ESC to sense no signal and go into "safe" mode. This will then prevent the ESC from allowing a calibration even after the RX is powered. It is perhaps "overly" simplistic to suggest that a T-motor ESC cannot be calibrated without a RED wire, as this is not necessarily the case...... it is more of a concern in what "order" the ESC & RX are powered. For us it is bulletproof to leave the RED wire attached during calibration. Also, each ESC may behave differently.
 

maxwelltub

Member
Interesting, good to know in the future in case I run into that issue with certain ESCs. I can't recall in my own experience if I removed the positive pin before of after calibration.
 

Hexacrafter

Manufacturer
Yep... It was VERY confusing and frustrating for us and our clients that were having issues.... we had not experienced it either, but always calibrated the ESC directly to the RX before soldering up the Power distribution..... Then 3 different clients with the same issue... it took a while to figure that one out.... who figured it would make any difference.....
 

bensid54

Member
So that means when using a higher amp ESC I should take another receiver and calibrate the ESC before removing the red wire and installing it on my Multi rotor?
 

Hexacrafter

Manufacturer
You want to do the throttle calibration on the RX that you plan to use. Just unplug all other servo leads including the power from a FC PMU and allow the ESC BEC to power the RX during the Calibration through the throttle channel being calibrated.
 

econfly

Member
You want to do the throttle calibration on the RX that you plan to use. Just unplug all other servo leads including the power from a FC PMU and allow the ESC BEC to power the RX during the Calibration through the throttle channel being calibrated.

I have always been confused by this. Can you tell me where I'm going wrong here?

During actual use, the RX from the radio is connected to the flight controller. The controller is connected to the ESCs. The flight controller is making all sorts of decisions about how much power to send to each motor in order to maintain attitude, etc., and the control signals from the RX never reach the ESC in raw form (at least on every flight controller I've seen). So I don't understand the point of calibrating ESCs to the RX.

Taking this a bit farther, the calibration merely moves the end points on the ESC -- i.e., tells the ESC what the minimum and maximum are for the throttle signal (literally the PWM signal widths). With the top end throttle position being relatively irrelevant, the primary point of all of this is to adjust the bottom end, and that in turn is aimed at the throttle level that starts the motors (the minimum PWM signal width required to get the motors started, which is a bit more than the low end throttle position). But flight controllers, in my experience, do not start motors by sending raw RX throttle values to ESCs. Rather, a start sequence from the RX tells the flight controller to start the motors and the controller then sends its own start value to the ESCs.

So, why does it matter which RX is used to calibrate ESCs, and more importantly why calibrate at all?
 


econfly

Member
No, you should calibrate with the receiver you are going to use.

Why? This whole ESC calibration exercise seems like a ritual based on some past necessity but irrelevant today with modern flight controllers and radios.

Just take the advice repeated here of calibrating "to the receiver you are going to use". Forget for a moment that the receiver never sends signals to the ESCs (that's the flight controller's job). But for now just focus on the radio and the receiver. I can take a bushel of modern Futaba receivers (7008sb, 6208sb, etc.) and every single one of them will output the exact same PWM throttle signal as received from the radio at every throttle position -- it's a digital system, after all.

Maybe some of this advice made sense at some time in the past, but I can't understand how it matters today.
 

PeteDee

Mr take no prisoners!
You are probably right but it is pretty much a moot point anyway, some ESC's can't be calibrated and some will not have a spare receiver anyway but what if it is off just a touch and I have seen them different by a small margin, there is no big deal with doing it this way anyway is there? Oh and many use cheaper small CPPM receivers in their builds, can you guarantee they will all be perfect, again no big deal to just use the one you have in front of you is there?
 

econfly

Member
You are probably right but it is pretty much a moot point anyway, some ESC's can't be calibrated and some will not have a spare receiver anyway but what if it is off just a touch and I have seen them different by a small margin, there is no big deal with doing it this way anyway is there? Oh and many use cheaper small CPPM receivers in their builds, can you guarantee they will all be perfect, again no big deal to just use the one you have in front of you is there?

I agree that it is all pretty much irrelevant, and assuming one decides to calibrate ESCs then using the receiver for the build makes as much sense as anything. My motivation here is to understand why things are done a certain way. And, as I noted above, the logic of calibrating ESCs to the radio RX just falls apart when the RX is never communicating with the ESC.

The bottom line is this: The flight controller sends signals to the ESCs. If there is a problem (e.g., the motors won't start -- and that's about the only problem likely to arise) the thing to do is to adjust the idle or similar setting in the flight controller. In the rare case where that won't fix the problem the ESCs may need to be calibrated. But here is the key point: the problem is not the signal from the RX to the flight controller. So calibrating to the RX can only fix the problem by accident (using the RX to intentionally alter the ESC end points in an attempt to fix a problem is possible but far more involved and advanced than the typical ESC calibration exercise discussed here).

Calibrating to the RX as a matter of habit is just pointless at best, and it would demystify the process for beginners if we could be clear about that.
 

Hexacrafter

Manufacturer
Well, I will agree to disagree. You make a lot of assumptions that may lead a beginner to disaster. If the ESC had been previously calibrated on a different RX, tx or worse yet a Futaba system and you now are going to us a Spektrum system, then big problems and frustration can occur. Also, when using a Spektrum system, you need to adjust the TX low endpoint during calibration or most FC will not allow the motors to arm. I have had ESC from different "lot" numbers that were calibrated differently at the factory.
I tend to suggest only "bulletproof" suggestions to my clients and to the members of the forums as I hate to see them get frustrated by taking a shortcut. It can "never" hurt to take a few extra steps, including using the RX planned for the build. This takes little extra effort and insures that all the equipment used is properly mated and calculated.
Careful, complete and precise is the best road I know to success.... Especially for a beginner.
 


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