Quadrirotor made in 3D printer

[Simspeed]

One solution could be to 3D print the parts and then make silicon molds and cast the parts in high strength mineral filled resin. Its a relatively inexpensive process you can do yourself (with a little practice). Mineral filled resins are very strong and are routinely used to prototype parts that will be exposed to high stresses. The downside is that the resin is heavier than ABS but depending on the size of the part, the increase in weight could be negligible.

I read recently of the availability of new filament materials that have chopped carbon fiber entrained in the spooled material for FFD printers. It will be interesting to see the strength characteristics of those. Thanks...TP

 

[SoCal Blur]

Yup, I think there are currently 8 different types of filaments available including one that has wood fibers in it. Pretty crazy. I still think that mineral filled resin would be stronger but we'll have to wait and see.

 

[jujucam70]

Hello

I have problems to configure multiwii ...

It' not simple when you usualy use naza ...

To be continued on : www.rc-impression3d.fr

 

[JLawrence]

What problems are you running into? What board are you using?

 

[jondrew]

No need to worry, I've been making entire multirotors out of 3D parts using both ABS and PLA...





And also making parts to mod existing frame plates...



All of these are currently being flown and they fly quite well. The Y6 is great for windy days, the little orange one is my low and slow FPV quad, I like to slalom through trees with it.

A peek at what's currently on the bench...



I think this one is going to be the best one yet!

Ken

P.S. if you print a part using a rectilinear or honeycomb infill of 25 to 30% it winds up quite light and as far as I can tell just as strong as if you printed it solid

What printer do you use?

 

[haha49]

I have thought about building some components using a 3D printer and ABS but I don't know how strong it would be and if it will be too heavy.

strength is dependant on thickness and design. You can make small light weight things but the cost of the printer alone you can simply make a quad that will work better and cheaper. If you like to tinker and make your own things then 3d printing is for you.

You can 3d print a working firearm.

 

[jujucam70]

strength is dependant on thickness and design. You can make small light weight things but the cost of the printer alone you can simply make a quad that will work better and cheaper. If you like to tinker and make your own things then 3d printing is for you.

You can 3d print a working firearm.

We have reduce the weight of 450 from 354 gramms to 190 gramms ! (with feet) and it is solid...

www.rc-impression3d.fr

 

[deluge2]

Just to keep the record straight, the s800 EVO never shipped with 'v1' arms, that was the original s800. There were a least 2 generations of arm changes before the s800 EVO was released. The EVO arms are still composite, but they are stiffer than the prior arm versions and they have multistranded signal and power wires.

Steve

Agreed. You want a ridgid frame with very little or no flex. Some have attributed the S800 EVO "flip of death" issues to the first gen arms that were very flexible. I don't know if that really is the primary cause but arms flexing was probably at least a factor.

That's why I asked the question - it seems to me that in order to get the same or similar regidity as CF you would have to make thicker parts out of ABS and therefore add additional weight. I'm not saying it's not worth trying...in fact I hope it works as I will be getting a 3D printer next month as well.

 

[RTRyder]

What printer do you use?

My main printer is a modified Solidoodle 3. Not a lot left of the original parts that shipped from the factory, I've upgraded most of the print mechanism as well as the print bed and power supply along with enclosing it all inside a Lexan shell so I can print ABS in a temperature controlled build chamber. The print quality I can get from it now is way better than what it could do stock and the mods that have been done to it allow me to maintain dimensions and overall shape much better than what you can do without a heated chamber.

I also have a small 3DR Delta printer that I use mainly for printing things in PLA or for small ABS pieces that print quickly enough to not need the heated build environment to keep it from lifting or warping.

Now that the weather has shifted from winter time to near summer time I've had to do some readjusting to both printers to compensate for the change from the heating system running to the A/C running, these things can be temperamental beasts at times.

Ken