NAZA rapid flashing red + LOW-VOL[4] error in assistant with a fully loaded LIPO !

[Linko]

Hi there,

I I just finished the construction of my first quadcopter :
- Xaircraft x650v4 frame
- Pulso 1050KV motors
- hobbywing 18A ESC
- NAZA + GPS
- LIPO 3S

When I did my first test, the system seemed to work properly, all motors working, NAZA led flashing properly etc.

I decided to wrap everything up into my frame in order to set it for the first fly. But ather this final installation, I encounter an error which I can't solve...

With two different LIPO 3S batteries, fully loaded, I have the naza led flashing red, and the error message "LOW-VOL[4]" in the assistant software. Furthermore, I have barely enough power to arm the motors. The can rotate for only a few seconds before stoping.

The system looks like I am connecting an empty battery. But I am actually connecting a fully loaded one !

Does anyone have an explanation and a solution for that ?? Thank you very much for your help !

 

[kloner]

this sounds like you have the voltage protection enabled and set to 4s............


go into assistant and disable the low voltage protection thing.

 

[DesJardins]

Ditto, something with the voltage protection settings

 

[kloner]

also make sure your 3s hasn't become a 2s by overdischarge. use a charger or voltmeter to look at the voltage, should be 12.6 fully charged

 

[Linko]

Thanks, I checked that but the low voltage protection is set to 3S and I did the calibration which recognizes the proper voltage.

I tried to disable this protection, and indeed the red flashing disappeared, and the led displayed a normal activity flashing.

But the problem is more serious, even with the protection disabled : I barely have enough power to start the motors. That can only rotate for a few seconds before stopping...

 

[kloner]

either your settings are too aggressive or your pack isn't the voltage you think it is.

need a voltage of your pack, it sounds smoked

 

[Linko]

I checked my packs with a voltmeter.

12V is coming out both of them...

 

[kloner]

does manual and atti act the same?

you might want to try recalibrating the radio in assistant and make sure to put the throttle to mid stick before clicking finish

is the low vol 4 error still showing in assistant?

 

[Linko]

Maybe you are close to a solution here !

So yes, it does it in atti and in manual mode.

I tried to recalibrate the radio in the assistant. I am ok for elevator, rudder and aileron. But I cannot manage to calibrate throttle properly. The cursor is just shaking and is not stabilizing like the others. Of course, just after clicking "start", I move all my sticks on my radio in all possible direction on the entire range.

Any idea on how to solve this one problem ?

 

[Linko]

Update : I just did a rebinding of my radio (Spektrum DX7S, AR8000 rx).

I now have what looks like a normal operation of motors. They start, and respond well to my throttle stick.

But I still have the red flashing of the naza...

Here is a screenshot of the assistant :

 

[DesJardins]

If you have GPS plugged in it's searching for a lock.
Make sure you go through the entire write process/calibration of the sticks and compass

 

[kloner]

shut off the low voltage protection for now. lets try and figure it out one problem at a time so nothing is masking the other.......

When your in assistant, were you able to re calibrate after the bind? it is going to need it, and it needs to be sitting at exactly half stick when on throttle when you bind, not by looking at the bars on your screen, but by looking at your radios "monitor page" or under throttle curve.

make sure your radio is showing no set endpoints or sub trim on any channels. everything should be zero, throttle curves flat and normal, throttle trim in the center. it is best to disable throttle trim all together so it doesn't get hit, will make the craft drift worse than not touched. also why exactly 50% mid stick is so important at finish during calibration.

Try that stuff and get back to us

my thoughts about low voltage protection is it sucks, but the voltage is most likely set to high. The problem is it makes your craft crash land, i'd rather smoke a pack and land it somewhat myself

 

[Linko]

I work that on and get back to you when I am done.

Thanks a lot for your help !

 

[trantrung88]

@linko: 3 day ago i have the same problem with you. after some reseach i have the solution:
i thinK in the "First level protection" No load should be 11,1 (3.6v per cell) . Loss should be 0.3v ( 0.1v per cell)
in the second level: No Load should be 9.9 or 10V.
There was a topic about how to set up volt protection: I just copy it from a user name : "KopterX" ( thank him so much)
1.
A fully charged Lipo Battery is a 4.2V/cell, that is 25.2V for a 6S Lipo.

2. I suggest about 3.6V/cell per cell for first level protection, this is 21.6V for 6S .

3. For second level i suggest to not go lower than 3.3V per cell because you might damage the Lipo pack, for a 6S this is 19.8. Your current setting at 18.6 means 3.1 per cell, with this setting you may damage the Lipos sooner or later.

4. Put around 0.6V Line Loss (0.1Vper cell for new batteries), and try again. After you land, measure again, if the voltage is still higher than you wanted, increment with more 0.1V until you find the correct line loss and get the end voltage you want. But if the Lipo is in good condition, your line loss must be around 0.6V for a 6S pack. Usually this is about 0.1 volt per cell with a new Lipo and it will increase in time when the battery will be older. You shoul check this again after 20-30 cycles.

5. If the time between first voltage protection and second is to short increase the value at first level protection until you get about 25-30 seconds time.

6. This voltage protection on DJI is a solution only if you dont have voltage and current telemetry. So i suggest you buy some telemetry and don't use the DJI voltage protection anymore since is not very accurate because of LIPOs discharge dynamics. I won't go deeper with this because is a big topic.

Line loss is the difference between voltage of your LIPO when you fly and the Lipo is LOADED (meaning there is a current load on the battery) and the voltage measured when the Lipo is disconnected from your copter, and there is NO LOAD on the LIPO pack.

There is an alternative way. You can measure the LOADED voltage by strapping the copter to your table and measure the voltage while motors running and stick is at 50%. Be very carefully if you do it this way, propellers can easy cut your fingers off!

Update : I just did a rebinding of my radio (Spektrum DX7S, AR8000 rx).

I now have what looks like a normal operation of motors. They start, and respond well to my throttle stick.

But I still have the red flashing of the naza...

Here is a screenshot of the assistant :

 

[mailman35]

if that 11.03v is the starting voltage then you have a big problem with the lipo as kloner said.
get a new battery(s)

 

[Linko]

I made progress :

I was able to rebind and recalibrate the radio, and I strictly followed the instructions (throttle at 50%, every cursor in green when I click finish).

I am now able to start the multirotor, and to get motors working. The naza led is normal (yellow in atti, green in gps atti, and no led in manual) when the multi is just powered.
I let the low voltage protection ON (I want it working 100% good before take off)

But when I push the throttle stick, the motors accelerate, and when it is about to take off (so with quite enough power), the led turns to rapid red flashing. I reduce the throttle : the led come back to normal (yellow or green...).

This is strange because the 2 batteries I have (lipo 3S 3700mAh 35C) give the same results. I charge them with a Imax B6AC, with a balance program at 3,7A and lipo 3S settings.

 

[kloner]

so lets go back to basics. if you buy a battery lets say it's 3000 mah 3s. that battery is super powerful and at it's best moment when it came out of the box held 3000 mah of 12.6 volts. your never suppose to get that pack hot, ever, starts eating awway at the internal resistance of the pack and in turn makes cells not return to there previous state. no more than 80% of the pack should ever be used or should ever be put back in to the pack. that means if the pack ever charges and takes more than 2400 mah you caused damage to the internal resistance of the pack. When you kill the IR, your cells hold less and less energy till the mah isn't anywhere near what stated and the voltage isn't high enough to fly once one cell eats the dust.

when a battery is charging, there is data on the screen. it shows mah going in, shows the amperage going in and it shows the voltage coming out. When it's done you want all the volts to be 12.6 or within .05 volts. if your balancing and hit the right arrow, it'll show you individual cell voltages both during charge or after. that should show 4.2 volts on 3 cells or your packs just not what you think it is anymore and it's time to buy more. usually when you smoke a pack, one cell falls to 2 or less volts and the others try going over if not hooked up to a balance charger. just because a battery finishes a charging cycle doesn't mean it's good to go, looking at those numbers i mention above does.

They also sell little cell checkers, plugs into the balance plug before you fly, size of a car alarm remote, shows all the veoltages on each vcell, something i do before every flight cause i got too many packs to keep track of what is and is't flown yet and it help eliminate low voltage protection...

check this video out, went down a couple weeks earlier and got my packs hot, lots 2 i didn't know about till they were lvc'n on me 3 minutes early

And that was without low voltage cutoff enabled, that's just the end of the pack. If you are trying to enable that lvc thing to tell you when to stop flying, i'd suggest using the timer in your radio and not rely on it telling you when it's done like your insiting setting up. You'll get them falling out of the sky deals in that video relying on it like that. As your packs age, even treated inthe best possible manner have to slowly have there flight times reduced or if you get aggressive and fly forward or hard, shorten the times. I have two timers linked to the throttle so as soon as i throttle up the timers start, then i got a short timer and a long timer, i judge what i just did and land accordingly on my los stuff. osd in fpv makes it like your there with all that stuff measured real time

 

[skipper1]

I am having the same problem as Linko. F330 with new 3s 2.2a, 25c. Red led starts flashing, I land, check the volts. Out of 4 batteries on the low end 10.94v high end 11.33v. It makes no sense to me. I think it's best to turn it off and use a 5 minute timer on the transmitter.

And now, a short video of my maiden flight. I know, I suck, give me time.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zxYPbgkP0-M

 

[Linko]

When I disable the low voltage protection, I can fly (I stay just above the ground), but there is someting really strange with the batteries.

At the begining of the flight, le assistant software shows 11,1v
After 1min : 10v
After 2 min : 8v !!

What s going on ?

 

[ChopperAddict]

Interesting thread, as I have been seeing something similar with my 450 DJI quad with NAZA kit on board. I am not yet convinced by the voltage control in the NAZA assistant, it seems to argue regularly with my voltage indicator, trying to cut power even though my indicator shows full power.

It raises a question in my mind that may help solve these issues, if someone can answer it ? Can we connect a 4 cell directly to the NAZA system ? if so, will the additional voltage be OK for my Fat shark Transmitter which states 7-12v input voltage. I assume that a 4 cell would give the motors more power, plus having a higher Mah capacity as well. The additional weight might be worth carrying them ?