I finally started my first build.
Turingy d2830-11 1000kV motors
Zippy-K Flightmax 3700mah 3S1P 20C Lipoly Battery
HK 20a ESCs
APM 2.6 FC with ublox neo6 GPS + 3DR mavlink telemetry radio
10\45 slowfly props
Turingy 9XR radio with OrangeRX DSMX/DSM2 2.4Ghz Transmitter Module and receiver
So far I have flashed the TX with opentx firmware and programmed it.
Flashed the ESCs with SimonK firmware using my homemade flash tool.
Converted a Coleman electric cooler power supply to power my Lipo charger.
I have a 300 w PC power supply in the process of being modified for a stronger power supply.
Cut all the parts for my frame.
The food container is a waterproof housing for all electronics and will be vented with a Gore vent which is waterproof for pressure equalizing to let the barometer work. I'm thinking this'll also take care of propwash.
The frame is based on the plans from Flitetest with my own twists. I used 1/4 underlayment for the plywood. I had some inky shop audits very firm and solid with no voids between plys. Ill probably drill some more holes to further reduce weight.
I want the main body be very solid and have the arms be weak breakaway points that are easily replaced in minutes the field. I also plan to attachable motors with zipties for more breakaway protection of props and motors.
Turingy d2830-11 1000kV motors
Zippy-K Flightmax 3700mah 3S1P 20C Lipoly Battery
HK 20a ESCs
APM 2.6 FC with ublox neo6 GPS + 3DR mavlink telemetry radio
10\45 slowfly props
Turingy 9XR radio with OrangeRX DSMX/DSM2 2.4Ghz Transmitter Module and receiver
So far I have flashed the TX with opentx firmware and programmed it.
Flashed the ESCs with SimonK firmware using my homemade flash tool.
Converted a Coleman electric cooler power supply to power my Lipo charger.
I have a 300 w PC power supply in the process of being modified for a stronger power supply.
Cut all the parts for my frame.
The food container is a waterproof housing for all electronics and will be vented with a Gore vent which is waterproof for pressure equalizing to let the barometer work. I'm thinking this'll also take care of propwash.
The frame is based on the plans from Flitetest with my own twists. I used 1/4 underlayment for the plywood. I had some inky shop audits very firm and solid with no voids between plys. Ill probably drill some more holes to further reduce weight.
I want the main body be very solid and have the arms be weak breakaway points that are easily replaced in minutes the field. I also plan to attachable motors with zipties for more breakaway protection of props and motors.
