Search results

Intent wasn't to make a VS thread. Really just wanted to know if any multirotor could get that shot. And I think we have concluded No. I have no tail boom problems anymore. Direct drive tail motor. The safety thing, IMO, anybody who thinks a large multi is safe.... You're kidding yourself...

Ah, I wasn't notified about these latest posts. Yes, the "practical" issues are a long-standing perception with SRH's, but I don't think they really apply anymore. Difficult to travel with, I'm not sure I'd agree was ever the case? IMO, they are easier to travel with as they can easily fold...

I ride dirtbikes. I don't jump like that though. :)

To try to keep this factual, what I'm looking for is evidence of any large multirotors capable of flying with a camera at more than say, 50mph. I can't find any.

Well, I would agree that a multirotor can do 45mph. But I'd disagree that the bike is doing 45mph. I'll check with some experts. I know my UAV helis are easily capable of 75mph loaded with equipment. And those tend to be underpowered.

I was looking for some footage from a servo-based camera gimbal (it's complicated, don't ask) and remember that Copterkids used to fly the old PhotoshipOne gimbals on helis back in the day, so I checked that out. While watching this video: it struck me, and I commented "some of the scenes...

I need to do something here, but I don't think that Hoodman product would stay in place under my machines.

Rick, check out the Rokinon lenses. The 16mm is a fantastic lens. But it's huge and manual focus... But really awesome glass. The Sony 16mm is total dog ****, but the 20mm is better. Not great, but better. Here's a photo I took last night with the 16mm. It's looking down on a field for...

I've got one similar to that with a Nex5. I can't get it working well enough to bother using.

Uh... non-DJI stuff. Tarot X8, and Helicopters, with Pixhawk.

Just skimmed through this thread so sorry if I missed a link (was looking for photos) but what are people using the for gimbals with this camera?

Regular Tattu, or Tattu Plus? How are they? I've not used them yet, arriving next week. Damn expensive so they better be good.

Ah, interesting, but if I used the same weight of battery, I'd have more capacity, and therefore C-rate would be lower. I hadn't seen those before, never looked at 8S batteries. I've been using the 10C rated ones (which is wrong, they're like 3C, they puff above 5C). But it seems like they're...

Those aren't even available anymore are they? I've got a helicopter I'm working on designed for work (not endurance tests) that is flying 50 minutes with 1kg payload, so far my best distance is 40km. That's using Turnigy Multistar batteries. So could go quite a bit further with higher energy...

Wow! Which batteries? Must be 18650?

Anybody use them? I'm looking to try these in professional application. Is the smart circuitry in parallel with the main power feeds? Or does the power run through a current sense board or similar? I think it doesn't in these. I'm just trying to figure out if there is something in them to...

Love this point you just made. Can you imagine what the world would be like if Ford had successfully patented the idea of "Take a small cheap car, and put a big engine into it." Have a friend who is the sole supplier of "the most popular drones" to "the biggest retailer in the world". Sounds...

Interesting. I guess new generation opto isolator transmitters are able to be powered directly from the PWM signal now. There are plenty of fake "optos" out there however, that have continuity. They don't even have a negative wire in the signal cable. Just the single wire for PWM.

Try this, because I'm curious. Disconnect the ESC from everything. Then, using a simple multimeter, check for continuity between the battery ground, and the signal ground wires. If there is any continuity at all, it's simply not opto-isolated.

Every real Opto ESC I have used won't power up without 5V from the signal wire.