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While I like the simplicity, i dont like the quite large lateral movement it allows. I dont think the removing of strands is a viable solution in The field. Having multiple isolator-sets with different strand-counts and lengths is probably the way to go. The temperature issue; remember that...

Dont go to f/22, you'll get diffraction and thus loss of sharpness and contrast. Buy a suitable ND filter instead. Or buy a cheap zoom lens instead, as the performance of the 25 mm will be comparable to that at f/22

The antivibe motors arent a good idea. The problem is this: - The rubber dampers provide vibe-killing, however it also allows for movement. So, if your prop/motor is not balanced, the amplitude of The vibration will actually be higher. In my mind, you would have to build as stiff as possible...

Or just this: http://aerobros.com/online/index.php?id_product=40&controller=product&id_lang=3

400? Really? The v3 pro from new costs less than that.. http://kopterworx.com/shop/flight-gimbal-electronics/picloc-radian-alex-moss/picloc-3x-pro-v2.html And we're talking about a discontinued, officially unsupported, outdated product...

Sadly I don't run with the second (yet) because I wanted to take that out of the equation before anything else. Will try the ferrite rings when some time decides to show up :D

After changing my i2c wire to a fancy separately shielded and braided wire, I thought I would get rid of my i2c/alexmos nightmare. But no... whenever i turn on my gimbal motors and move them around, I get something like 2 i2c erros for every 10 seconds. This usually ends up in the pitch...

Having flown Hacker, Hyperion, axi and now t-motors, i must admit that next motors will also be t-motors. They are expensive, but they are well balanced, and performance well!

I have used a picloc v3 pro on the tarot 5d gimbal. Very mixed feelings. Pitch and roll it good, however the yaw is a mess! I simply couldn't get it to work probably. Either it it oscillate with ever increasing power, or, when trying to correct the pids for the oscialting behaviour (using...

I'm looking into buying the alexmos 3 axis. Too many issues with the newest picloc : - The magnet sensor is a wierd size and with a wierd wire-length. If anything, group all sensors together like with the Tarot stabilizer. Makes it a lot easier to place. - My picloc starts to drift after 2-3...

Hmm, also having having a lot of problems with drifting... the first 5-10 min it's fine, but then it starts drifting around. One scenario is the gimbal drifting around slowly on all axis, but the virtual horizon stays absolutely still... :S Needless to say that the axis have been centered..

I have the same problem with over/undershooting when doing big movement... Very annoying, and can't seems to tweak my way out of it. Any tips or tricks are more than welcome.

Sure you have enabled the 360 mode on the pan axis in the picloc?

It's simple, keep your distance! Pretty irresponsible to go that close.

The problem the lack of torque? It's very hard to see from Your video with not comments..

Of course the mix has to be right. However with a coax setup you also have to choose the right prop combination. Some examples: - using same size and pitch top and bottom and same mixer value for both, can cause the lower prop to almost freewheel in the top prop's stream. This way it wont...

You should change your props instead of doing it with the mixer :)

I have flown in around -10 deg C as well. No problems with a MK. Around the poles, that could be funny magnetism wise, but then again, the GPS should provide the compass with the offset it needs. Only thing dangerous about minus degrees is if you combine it with fog. Ice will then form on...

Nop, but would like to. However, I think a x8 with larger diameter props and 6s would be more efficient, giving you higher payload capacity or longer flight-duration.

That sounds very wierd indeed, have never had those sort of issue on either of my 2 MK's. What does the log-file say ?