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When the WK-M loses sats, it reverts to ATTI mode and I believe a failsafe condition will cause it to simply autoland where it is, like the Naza does. One thing I'd like to see changed in the RTH function is that it seems that once initiated, there's no way to regain control, and cancel the RTH...

I didn't remove the noodles completely. I have two sizes of pool noodles, one that is 2.75" in diameter, and one that is 4". It turns out the smaller ones fit inside the larger ones, so I gave that a try. When I had the disturbed air issue, I simply removed the larger 4" ones, and just kept the...

First of all, I don't agree that 9x5s are the answer. The 9x5x3 GWS 3-bladed version which lift-wise, are more like 10x4s, have a harder time lifting 2kg, in this setup. I think the 10x5 Graupners will work, however. The 11x5s are right in the zone, from a lift and disc loading perspective. The...

Made a few changes today, and saw quite a bit of improvement. :) First, I removed the "outer" pool noodle layers, which helped quite a bit, just doing that. I then just had some "normal" jello, mainly because the props were not completely balanced anymore. I had had an incident, when trying...

No, it's actually not a bearing, but the servos in the gimbals "chattering", due to the vibrations. They aren't really that loud but the GoPro amplifies the sounds.

My thought as well, regarding the oversized noodles. What made it worse, I think, is one of them blew off, so there was one that had "good air" and three that didn't. I'd go with the 10x6x3s, if you are currently using 11" now. -- Gary

Nice tip, thanks. :) -- Gary

I did a quickie test flight a little while ago. I decided, after playing with the numbers in ecalc a bit, that this would be better on 4s, so I'm using two 4s-2600 packs in parallel. This upped the AUW slightly to 2030g/4lb 7.6 oz. I initially tried it in Manual mode, to see how much power is...

Actually, I forgot. That measurement was without props. I just weighed it again, with props and a single 3s-5300 pack and it is 4lb 0.4oz/1826g. -- Gary

Thanks, Dave. The AUW is 3 lb 15 oz/1786g. The props are GWS 9x5x3s, which are available lots of places. These take a bit long to balance, but the result is that they completely vibration free, and they are a ton quieter than the normal 10x5s that come with the F450 kits. -- Gary

I finally got my new F450 built and setup with the new GoPro-specific 2-axis gimbal/mount that I've been working on with Andrey Kim (Askman...). Getting a 1st-rate, belt-driven GoPro gimbal has been a sort of holy grail quest for me, and now I have exactly what I've been looking for. :) I've...

Nevermind! :02.47-tranquillity: I was able to go back to v1.0 of the Assistant software, do all the initial configuration settings and then I was able to reload V1.1 and do the firmware upgrade to v1.02. :) -- Gary

I'm building up a second Naza/F450 setup and the first time I've tried to run the Assistant software, I get the following error: Has anyone else run into this? I'm not sure what else to try, short of going back to the original v1.0 Assistant software. -- Gary

The distribution board? That's the whole point of flowing the solder. You are beefing up what it can handle.

I experienced the same thing with my WK-M/XA Hexa. I was having issues with a toilet bowl effect in GPS mode, which ended up being due to my GPS module coming "loose". I didn't really notice the TBE effect until I decided to try the RTH function. It ended up doing a 30 foot spiral, just missing...

No, not at all. Even though the motors might be capable of handling 50A, you won't get anywhere near that for this sort of setup. Also, most any power distribution board can be made to handle more current. All you have to do is flow some solder on the traces, to build them up. I've used this...

What the 16kHz setting changes is the pulse width modulation frequency, or PWM. To control the throttle, PWM is used with varying duty cycles, instead of a linear voltage change. This way it is always seeing the full voltage, or zero. More efficient this way, and less heat is generated. Anyway...

Yes, sorry, it should have been 13.4V loaded. Another senior typing moment. :dread:

Yes, I like it "here". A little less frenetic than RCGroups, and a lot less drama. :highly_amused: I also have a large setup I'm working on, which is a CineStar 6. I have it built, but I'm still trying to sort out ESCs for it. I have some 40A HobbyWing Platinum series versions, but they are not...

I use 3.4V per cell for the "loaded" 1st level and 3.3V for the second, and I use .2V for both "loss" entries. So, my settings are 1st level: 13.8V - .20V = 13.6V; 2nd level: 13.4V - .20V = 13.2V. If I stop when the flashing yellow LED comes on steady, during hovering, there's around 15-18% of...