Recent content by liquidlightning

You don't need to solder into the frame; a frame which allows you to would be a big help, as its a lot neater and cleaner, but it isn't necessary. You could just use a distribution board or harness. It's lighter than cables are, and looks better. Using a 4s battery is more efficient, more...

I would venture a guess that you could spend anywhere from $400 for a quad with cheap parts, on all the way to $1500+ if you go for all top quality parts, with all the bells and whistles. Using the Canon cams will necessitate a much larger vehicle than the GoPro, increasing costs a good bit...

I'm using the Blueseries with SimonK and they are doing excellent. Haven't tried the Afros.

I've no clue, but if they weigh much more than normal props, do you think it would improve your yaw power? Seeing as how yaw depends on torque, and you need more torque to spin heavier props.

What you are describing for the F550 is correct, if you are in manual or acro mode. What your octocopter is doing is not manual mode at all, that is self-stabilize. Maybe you didn't actually put it into manual? What acro does is it only uses the gyros and it tries to hold your current...

When designing an H-quad frame, do the motors need to make a square? If they are not arranged as such, say in a rectangle, would I need to make changes to the mixer settings in the KK2.1? Or would a standard x layout quad setup work? I know I will need to change the roll/pitch PID values separately.

Hi all, I'm having an odd issue with my SimonK flashed ESCs. They are the HobbyKing BlueSeries 30A. Usually, when I hook up the battery, they all give 3 ascending beeps, and then 1 long beep to indicate being armed. However, sometimes they will start up with 2 descending beeps, and then 1 long...

Indeed it is!

Okay, the problem is gone. I'm not sure what exactly fixed it, but here is what I did: 1) Wound ESC servo leads around a toroid. 2) Put receiver antenna in proper orientation. 3) Moved power distribution board to lower section of my frame, so no longer right next to ESC wires. 4) Balanced...

I have heard that on the KK2.1, the power rails are separated, and so it is okay to plug more than one switching BEC in at the same time. Is this true? I wouldn't want to kill my ESCs or FC...

I have heard that on the KK2.1, the power rails are separated, and so it is okay to plug more than one switching BEC in at the same time. Is this true? I wouldn't want to kill my ESCs or FC...

I wrote up this windows batch script for flashing ESCs or any other ATmel chip using an Arduino. Just upload the Arduino as ISP example sketch, and then hook up your mosi/sck/miso/rst/gnd/vcc and it should work. For some reason the kk multicopter flash tool did not work for me with the Arduino...

Unfortunately, I do not have a USBasp, or a socket flashing cable. I'm using an Arduino with the ArduinoasISP sketch, and it is recognized as an AVRisp. I already got one ESC flashed, seems to be working great. It is a bit of a pain to solder on those pads though.

Okay I've flashed my KK2.1 to Steveis 1.9, and I'll try flashing my ESCs to SimonK tomorrow. Finally found a use for my Arduino (Arduino as ISP). My motor and frame parts arrive Friday, so I'll try to get this firmware business done before then.

Did updating the firmware fix it? I'm on 1.5 currently.