Recent content by ewr

Not sure why you would ever power the Rx with a pack....Rx's are usually 5-6v so a 1 cell would be too low and 2 cell too high. Just connect a BEC to any channel on the Rx and the ESC to the throttle channel.

If only they had more than 5 models from one of the four lines....

Usually I do a detailed visual inspection first, and if everything looks ok (no bent pins touching, no visible solder breaks, wires OK etc) then I power up one item at a time and watch for anything abnormal (heat, smoke, flame!, anything out of ordinary). Motors you can usually tell visually and...

Watched mine tonight, 3s was 4.18, 4.19, 4.20 after a fast charge, and on balance setting, it did the same, but then spent 15 minutes making all three 4.20v.

The cheapest solution would be to teach them, one by one, using a Master/Trainer Tx system. give them a classroom lesson, move them to the computer lab and so some simulator training, then go to the gym or outside and pair them up with however many experienced instructors and trainer systems you...

I figured since it was 3 axis but wasn't sure..these days china pops out a new gimbal baby every few days!

Seriously! at 2:21....I want to know what gimbal setup that is!

Not sure if those rectangle openings above each arm are already for what I will suggest...but ever since I've started cutting my own CF I've always measured my ESC's and cut exact fitting holes for them, and cutting CF plates similar to the battery plates, which go underneath the ESC's and bolt...

Looks like the same motor every time, no? try labeling then swapping motors to different arms and see if it does it on only one of the motors, or ESC. When you use yaw input I believe it puts a lot of stress on the motors because they are slowing/speeding very quickly to produce the torque to...

Like Jareth said....your AUW will dictate your choices. ecalc lets you play around with prop size, AUW, and battery weight/mAh until you find the spot where you start getting diminishing returns for mAh vs weight of more batteries.

just use "custom" and enter in the specs manually.

Yes I explained in the first post that it takes into account number of poles, can length, diameter, cooling, voltage, max watts or amps...so I figured it couldn't go wrong! but apparently it can lol. I entered in 22 poles. Thanks Eric

I did notice the specs listed for the "lite" were different..but I assumed you could just update to the new firmware....maybe they put some type of "lock" on the Lite so you can't upgrade it? Regardless, the "lite" specs are the same specs as the V1 with the "old" firmware..which is all I needed...

Thanks for the reply, Schoeds. Well the motor is meant to be run on 6s so I don't think I can go lower...and the only lower Kv they offer is 420 which would give me around 1800 less RPM...but again, the manufacturer recommends 14-15" props. Doing some more digging I found some prop test charts...

Goes a little over your cost including tools...but I bought some 1" pure copper hex bar and cut two 1/2" long pieces off....I then drilled one 1/8" dia x 1/8" depth hole on each flat of the hex for the 14g ESC wires, and a 1/4" dia x 1/4" Depth hole down the center ("top") for the 8g feed wire...