1001 Copters
Member
It works with SAVOX servo.
check if the deadband and caracteristics ar the same between your servo and the Savox one :/
check if the deadband and caracteristics ar the same between your servo and the Savox one :/
Photohigher skyline rsgs
- Thread starter 1001 Copters
- Start date
So based on the below data a MKS servo won´t work?
Savöx
Savox SC-1256TG
Dead band width: 3 μsec
Pulse width range: 800→2200 μsec
MKS HV787
Dead band: 0.0008 ms (Default) (0.8μsec?)
Working frequence: 1520μs / 333hz
Is there any way of making it work without buying new savöx servos?
Savöx
Savox SC-1256TG
Dead band width: 3 μsec
Pulse width range: 800→2200 μsec
MKS HV787
Dead band: 0.0008 ms (Default) (0.8μsec?)
Working frequence: 1520μs / 333hz
Is there any way of making it work without buying new savöx servos?
I have MKS BLS 950 with the same spec's. There's no problem with speed here
Since yours are the high voltage kind, I guess they're supplied wit at least 6V?
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Hmmm.... strange.
What could be wrong then?
I supply them through a bec at 6.1V 3A which should be more than enough!
There is no other setting than gain to affect how they behave is there?
This is what it looks like, seems to be more than 0.03s response time here? :upset:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHsg2ZHV220
What could be wrong then?
I supply them through a bec at 6.1V 3A which should be more than enough!
There is no other setting than gain to affect how they behave is there?
This is what it looks like, seems to be more than 0.03s response time here? :upset:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HHsg2ZHV220
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From what I've understood so far:
- by their own admission, PH developed the RSGS using only Savox servos.
- their cable harness supplies a "spoof" 1500us PWM @ 3.3V to the servo's regular PWM input
- the RSGS itself mimics a potentiometer, supplying a variable voltage to the potentiometer input of the servo's internal controller
Therefore, any non-Savox servo used must operate with:
- a 3.3V PWM signal
- the same reference voltage on its potentiometer as the Savox (but PH hasn't specified what this is)
So...
- some Hitec servos apparently expect 5.0V PWM and therefore give problems (though I've not heard of anything like this before - seems odd) - if some Hitecs have this issue then presumably some other brands will have it too.
- some servos will (obviously) use a different reference voltage (and range) to the Savox - if they do then it's likely they won't (ever) work with the RSGS.
My guess is that your MKS HV servos use a different reference voltage and range on their pot input (==> "incompatible") - this could account for very slow movement.
So, really, what PH should be stating clearly, on their website and in the manual, is that this system is designed exclusively for, and only tested with, Savox servos. Period.
- by their own admission, PH developed the RSGS using only Savox servos.
- their cable harness supplies a "spoof" 1500us PWM @ 3.3V to the servo's regular PWM input
- the RSGS itself mimics a potentiometer, supplying a variable voltage to the potentiometer input of the servo's internal controller
Therefore, any non-Savox servo used must operate with:
- a 3.3V PWM signal
- the same reference voltage on its potentiometer as the Savox (but PH hasn't specified what this is)
So...
- some Hitec servos apparently expect 5.0V PWM and therefore give problems (though I've not heard of anything like this before - seems odd) - if some Hitecs have this issue then presumably some other brands will have it too.
- some servos will (obviously) use a different reference voltage (and range) to the Savox - if they do then it's likely they won't (ever) work with the RSGS.
My guess is that your MKS HV servos use a different reference voltage and range on their pot input (==> "incompatible") - this could account for very slow movement.
So, really, what PH should be stating clearly, on their website and in the manual, is that this system is designed exclusively for, and only tested with, Savox servos. Period.
DJIFlyer
Member
Final conclusion? I have my RSGS, I have my new AV200 and I made the magic loom that didn't seem to make any difference at all. I have applied a rotary damper to the pitch access and that helped with much of the jitters but I may still need to experiment with ones of greater resistance to see if I can solve this all together. I have followed the thread for all 80 pages thus far but I admit it; my head is spinning. I need to get some work done with this stuff and I am wondering what the final conclusion is as to the best ways in which to set this thing up to get it to function to the best of its limited capabilities. Since there have been some conflicting ideas on 'how to do what' has anyone agreed on what the best few steps are in order to get the best out of this RSGS unit at this point in time with regard to firmware, software setup, gains, etc? I need to get mine up and running once and for all today and just live with what I get, brush up on my post processing skills and then wait for a better unit to come along as I have no faith that this one will ever be straight. Not from a company who won't even bother to weigh in on any of these problems. I guess the alternative might be to simply put the pots back on the AV200 and control this thing via F1 & F2 of the WKM and forget about RSGS altogether. Do you think that might actually better than trying to deal with the RSGS? I know that there are more than one of us who probably need this info in one concise location so I am sure that it will be greatly appreciated. I will get back with some details and video when I test additional rotary dampers in the days to come.
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1001 Copters
Member
Hi,
to obtain the best:
A/ mount the skyline on a servo plate with gyro gel mount between servo plate and skyline.
B/ use the H loom
C/ Control that you don't have any mechanical play in your gimbal AND servo. Otherwise, remove this mechanical play.
D/ use a small washer of plastics or nylon or other stuff that will create a little friction between tilt servo and gimbal
Hope you wil find this helpfull
best regards,
Cédric
to obtain the best:
A/ mount the skyline on a servo plate with gyro gel mount between servo plate and skyline.
B/ use the H loom
C/ Control that you don't have any mechanical play in your gimbal AND servo. Otherwise, remove this mechanical play.
D/ use a small washer of plastics or nylon or other stuff that will create a little friction between tilt servo and gimbal
Hope you wil find this helpfull
best regards,
Cédric
I'd love to see a video of that initialisation sequence - is there any available on YouTube/Vimeo? The sensors are (I assume) on the inner (pitch) axis, so it's generating rapid oscillations (i.e. vibrations within the expected frequency range) in each actuator and measuring what gets through to the sensors. Then, when it spots that "pattern" during flight it isolates/characterises it and adds the inverse? Like noise cancelling headphones? Clever stuff indeed.
The Zenmuse price puts it way beyond the "average hobbyist" - this is "production gear". The top end DSLRs and camcorders may also be bought by some "average hobbyists", but they are designed as "production gear". The "average professional" will willingly engage with any level of set-up complexity so long as it's explained properly. Yes, you've "proved" it can handle higher weights - unfortunately you haven't explained how you did it
Nevertheless, for a significantly larger/heavier camera it remains a fact that the Zenmuse structure and actuators would have to grow significantly larger - and therefore, by the known laws of both manufacturing and marketing, significantly more expensive.
That's disappointing
1001 Copters
Member
@ Jes1111: thank you to open a dedicated post about Zenmuse to speak about its feature, that's not the scope of this thread
@Djiflyer: Skyline is sensitive to vibrations so it's better to place a dampening system between the skyline and the gimbal. a Servo wheel have nearly a good diameter and it have a center hole.
Take soome dampening gel for Gyro (kyosho or other) cut a round part in it and place it on the back of the skyline. place it now on the servowheel and screw everything on the tilt axis.
That's not optimal I agree because vibration can go threw the screw inside the skyline. The screw isn't necessary, the gyro gel is generaly very very adhesive.
@Djiflyer: Skyline is sensitive to vibrations so it's better to place a dampening system between the skyline and the gimbal. a Servo wheel have nearly a good diameter and it have a center hole.
Take soome dampening gel for Gyro (kyosho or other) cut a round part in it and place it on the back of the skyline. place it now on the servowheel and screw everything on the tilt axis.
That's not optimal I agree because vibration can go threw the screw inside the skyline. The screw isn't necessary, the gyro gel is generaly very very adhesive.
DJIFlyer
Member
@ Jes1111: thank you to open a dedicated post about Zenmuse to speak about its feature, that's not the scope of this thread
@Djiflyer: Skyline is sensitive to vibrations so it's better to place a dampening system between the skyline and the gimbal. a Servo wheel have nearly a good diameter and it have a center hole.
Take soome dampening gel for Gyro (kyosho or other) cut a round part in it and place it on the back of the skyline. place it now on the servowheel and screw everything on the tilt axis.
That's not optimal I agree because vibration can go threw the screw inside the skyline. The screw isn't necessary, the gyro gel is generaly very very adhesive.
Cedric: Thank you for the additional details. I will get some servo gel and try this idea without using the centerscrew. Can you tell me what the best firmware would be to use at this point as there has been many conflicting thoughts on this. Also. I heard one person say that we should not use the "auto setup feature". Do you have a conclusion on this as well? Please let me know. Thanks again.
1001 Copters
Member
I know that photohigher is improving things actualy.
they are working on the firmware and some release are to be expected.
You should use the latest one available 1.1.6 with the dedicated software.
About the autotune function: it does the same thing as what we were doing previously with initial calibration ( removing belts and roll wheel) so if you don't have satisfaction with autotune, use the old fashion way
they are working on the firmware and some release are to be expected.
You should use the latest one available 1.1.6 with the dedicated software.
About the autotune function: it does the same thing as what we were doing previously with initial calibration ( removing belts and roll wheel) so if you don't have satisfaction with autotune, use the old fashion way
1001 Copters
Member
DennyR isn't a lemon !
lol ^^
lol ^^
Actually I have a lot to loose by falling out with DJI and in reality nothing to gain. If someone really want to find out about what DJI are doing the best way is to buy the product. regard that info as an interlude whilst we all wait and wait.:tennis:
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chris hornby
Member
Cedric, please ask Photohigher to come on here and give us an update on what they are doing. Most of us here are supportive and are willing this to be a good product. But the longer they stay quiet, the more discouraged we will be, and the more discouraging will be the comments and rumours.
@ Jes1111: thank you to open a dedicated post about Zenmuse to speak about its feature, that's not the scope of this thread
@Djiflyer: Skyline is sensitive to vibrations so it's better to place a dampening system between the skyline and the gimbal. a Servo wheel have nearly a good diameter and it have a center hole.
Take soome dampening gel for Gyro (kyosho or other) cut a round part in it and place it on the back of the skyline. place it now on the servowheel and screw everything on the tilt axis.
That's not optimal I agree because vibration can go threw the screw inside the skyline. The screw isn't necessary, the gyro gel is generaly very very adhesive.
As a general rule the mounting of an imu has to be done with a specific degree of frequency dampening. That is why the DJI (sorry for that) uses a double sided paper to mount their FC controllers so that an augmented movement does not happen. As could happen with double sided rubberized tape.
DJIFlyer
Member
DennyR: Sorry if this is off-topic but I am going to assemble my S800 today with the AV200 and the RSGS unit as I mentioned earlier. When I mount my WKM IMU and MC how would you recommend that I do this? Would it be beneficial to use servo gel on one or both of them... or should I stick with foam tape (no pun intended)... or just use the double stick paper (no padding) sort of tape? Thanks.
DucktileMedia
Drone Enthusiast
I have the latest 1.1.7 and will try it out today at some point. Will report back if it is better.