Liked the air so much, she wouldn't come down...
- Thread starter janoots2
- Start date
Thanks, tstrike. I understand. But ...
Do the ESC's each have to be connected to a motor first? And ...
So I would have to calibrate and program the ESC's before soldering the ESC's to the PDB? The RX would be have to be binded but that and the Naza not yet attached to the PDB?
By now you must realize what a noobie I am. Please don't assume prior knowledge on my part. I may have a Bsc but it wasn't for any technical field. And I hate math.
Rob Lol
:tennis:
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You can solder them to your distro board so long as you can put power to it. Yes, your rx has to be bound to your tx, all you're doing is letting your transmitter tell the speed controller what hi and low throttle is. You don't have to have a motor plugged into the esc. Gobs of cali vids on utube.
Many thanks, tstrike. Things are coming together now.
My ESC's were delivered today. They came with a users manual which is much clearer than I expected. One thing had kept confusing me. Some instructions say the confirming beeps come from the motor. I was sceptical of that because why would any motor contain a sound emitting chip? A motor is just a motor. I didn't believe it. The manual for my ESC's describes the confirmation beeps and it says they're emitted by the ESC. Not the motor. Just as I suspected.
So from that I can believe your advice that the motor doesn't have to be connected in order for the ESC to be throttle calibrated. OKAY. I'm in a much better place with my understandings now.
I couldn't believe that the motor had to be connected in order to listen for a beep from it. That's illogical. You don't power up the TX and the PDB with the throttle set at high max and the motor powered. It would stress and damage the motor. Sheesh. There's some bad and confusing info out there for noobies. I think I've moved ahead in proceeding with my build.
I understand better now. Thank you, tstrike.
Best of all, I'm glad I asked and that you answered.
Best, Rob
My ESC's were delivered today. They came with a users manual which is much clearer than I expected. One thing had kept confusing me. Some instructions say the confirming beeps come from the motor. I was sceptical of that because why would any motor contain a sound emitting chip? A motor is just a motor. I didn't believe it. The manual for my ESC's describes the confirmation beeps and it says they're emitted by the ESC. Not the motor. Just as I suspected.
So from that I can believe your advice that the motor doesn't have to be connected in order for the ESC to be throttle calibrated. OKAY. I'm in a much better place with my understandings now.
I couldn't believe that the motor had to be connected in order to listen for a beep from it. That's illogical. You don't power up the TX and the PDB with the throttle set at high max and the motor powered. It would stress and damage the motor. Sheesh. There's some bad and confusing info out there for noobies. I think I've moved ahead in proceeding with my build.
I understand better now. Thank you, tstrike.
Best of all, I'm glad I asked and that you answered.
Best, Rob
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Hey Rob, you're welcome. A couple things, if you're using a naza in your build it's probably a good thing to get the led unit soldered onto the your distro board and use that to put power to your rx before you calibrate.
View attachment 10666
If you hook both lines coming off your V-Sen unit up to the correct plugs on your naza, then plug your U channel into the correct plug on your receiver, it'll give the receiver a lower voltage and won't run the risk of burning it out by overpowering it with straight 12v.
So once you get those 3 things plugged in, you can then take your signal wires from the esc and plug them into your rx and do the calibration.
Hope that helps rather then add more confusion.
View attachment 10666
If you hook both lines coming off your V-Sen unit up to the correct plugs on your naza, then plug your U channel into the correct plug on your receiver, it'll give the receiver a lower voltage and won't run the risk of burning it out by overpowering it with straight 12v.
So once you get those 3 things plugged in, you can then take your signal wires from the esc and plug them into your rx and do the calibration.
Hope that helps rather then add more confusion.
Attachments
Tomstoy2
Member
Robersup, just so you understand, neither the motor nor the esc has a sound chip. The esc emits power To make the motors squeal at a certain frequency.
So yes, the motors must be plugged in.
You will actually see the motor move just a tiny bit.
The esc can send out conflicting power to make the
motors squeal at different tone levels.
So yes, the motors must be plugged in.
You will actually see the motor move just a tiny bit.
The esc can send out conflicting power to make the
motors squeal at different tone levels.
I'm back to square one again. You and tstrike seem to be in disagreemant about whether the motor has to be connected.
I don't want to stress the motor by powering it with the throttle already set to high position. The makers refer to a series of beeps. Not "squeals". I'm stumped again and won't calibrate at all until I get more clarification.
Move "just a tiny bit" ??? The motor would be launched at maximum rpm instantly. Damaging it. Unless the ESC prevents that during the throttle calibration.
If I saw the motor move "just a tiny bit" then it couldn't emit any sound at all. (Thank goodness I already know to calibrate without the props on - LOL) :tennis:
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Tom is correct, I am wrong (as far as not needing a motor hooked up). I had my multi totally built before I calibrated my esc's, not ever having done it before, I drug my feet until the bitter end. The esc emits waves or something that causes the motor windings to resonate and make the little dings.
So, do all the other stuff and hook a motor up. You won't stress the motors running them at full, especially without a prop.
Apologies and thanks to Tomstoy for correcting me.
So, do all the other stuff and hook a motor up. You won't stress the motors running them at full, especially without a prop.
Apologies and thanks to Tomstoy for correcting me.
Tomstoy2
Member
RobetsUp,
To begin with, do each esc/motor independently, not all together.
To calibrate throttle throw;
1. power off
2. Isolate to one esc/motor combo.
3. Power up radio, move throttle to full high position.
4. Power up esc/motor combo. Motor will beep that it recognises high position. Motor will not turn on, this is a safety feature of the esc. Note, have prop off, just in case. Safety has no excuse.
5. Move throttle to low position. Motor will beep that it recognises low position.
6. power off the esc/motor combo. This saves the setting.
Note. if you do not do #5, but leave the throttle at high it will beep, then a long pause, then emit a long series of beeps as it then enters calibration mode. This mode allows you to make changes to the esc, such as;
a. calibrate esc to nicad
b. motor timing, ( usually medium or high ).
c, if you make changes, you must enter the exit phase of the programming to save changes.
Note. All of this is explained in the documentation included with your esc. Read it thoroughly. It can be confusing, but if you take your time reading it you will come to terms with it.
If you calibrate thru the motor it will save you money, instead of buying a programmer, which you generally only use once. The sequence can be hard to decypher, but if you take your time, the sequence of beeps does become intuitive.
To begin with, do each esc/motor independently, not all together.
To calibrate throttle throw;
1. power off
2. Isolate to one esc/motor combo.
3. Power up radio, move throttle to full high position.
4. Power up esc/motor combo. Motor will beep that it recognises high position. Motor will not turn on, this is a safety feature of the esc. Note, have prop off, just in case. Safety has no excuse.
5. Move throttle to low position. Motor will beep that it recognises low position.
6. power off the esc/motor combo. This saves the setting.
Note. if you do not do #5, but leave the throttle at high it will beep, then a long pause, then emit a long series of beeps as it then enters calibration mode. This mode allows you to make changes to the esc, such as;
a. calibrate esc to nicad
b. motor timing, ( usually medium or high ).
c, if you make changes, you must enter the exit phase of the programming to save changes.
Note. All of this is explained in the documentation included with your esc. Read it thoroughly. It can be confusing, but if you take your time reading it you will come to terms with it.
If you calibrate thru the motor it will save you money, instead of buying a programmer, which you generally only use once. The sequence can be hard to decypher, but if you take your time, the sequence of beeps does become intuitive.
Many thanks to both of you. I'm off in the right direction now especially after some more reading and after seeing some vids. Before, I was confused but now I have the confidence to proceed. Thanks again.
My ESC's arrived yesterday already flashed with SimonK and I learned that one ought not attempt any other programming. Just to calibrate throttle and fly. Sounds good. Full programming seems like a daunting task. I'm happy that I can skip that.
You've helped me over a hurdle and I'm grateful.
Best, Rob
:02.47-tranquillity:
My ESC's arrived yesterday already flashed with SimonK and I learned that one ought not attempt any other programming. Just to calibrate throttle and fly. Sounds good. Full programming seems like a daunting task. I'm happy that I can skip that.
You've helped me over a hurdle and I'm grateful.
Best, Rob
:02.47-tranquillity: