DJI Zenmuse H3-2D Gimbal for GoPro.

I just finished mounting my H3-2D to my F550. It was a pretty straight forward install. Connected it all up and upgraded the firmware. All appears to be working however the gimbal constantly makes a wurring sound from the motors even when sitting level and still. I'm not sure if this is "normal". When I move the MR around the gimal acts as it should and maintains a level camera. I have not yet had a chance to put it up in the air as I ran out of day and I'd like to double check everything and get some clarification around the noise. Anyone got any feedback?
 

Mine does the quiet whirling sound as well. I can't speak to that being normal or not, but it does fly well. Yesterday I took it out for a good 20mins of flying. I was a little disappointed on a couple of high rate turns where the gimbal decided to bank the camera 40ish degrees, and a few other times that it decided that 3-5 degrees was level enough.
As for the whirling sound, we'll see if others chime in. If not, at least that's two of us. ;)
 

Well I rang the supplier and they assured me the sound is normal operation and if I have any issues to let the know. I took it up for about 2min this afternoon before the it got too dark and my non fully charged battery allowed me. but without any tweaking of gains or mounting i'm happy with the results so far.
 





Hi Nigel. It just turns on the red light, but doesn't power on the camera. I don't think the gimbal powers the camera; at least, if the GoPro battery is dead, it wont' turn on even if connected to a fully powered gimbal.
 

Tahoe Ed

Active Member
Hi Nigel. It just turns on the red light, but doesn't power on the camera. I don't think the gimbal powers the camera; at least, if the GoPro battery is dead, it wont' turn on even if connected to a fully powered gimbal.

My H3 powers up when I power up my H3-2D. Now if I want to record, I have to press the button, at least until they have Tx control.
 

My H3 powers up when I power up my H3-2D. Now if I want to record, I have to press the button, at least until they have Tx control.
Interesting the difference in behavior. I wonder if it's a function of gimbal SW version or GoPro software version... or neither... But when I power on my MR/gimbal, definitely the red light blinks, but the screen stays off and I have to hit the power button first. :(
 

Tahoe Ed

Active Member
I am on v1.04 and the front led comes on. I have a H3 Black with the latest firmware. I normally run 2.7k 24fps. I don't use wifi since there have been issues.
 


Sadly, not as of yet. Pretty much you have to put the GoPro in the recording mode of your choice (time lapse photo, or video, or combo of both) while on the ground, then take off, and live with what it comes back with. :D
I am hoping DJI is thinking of enabling this, but I haven't read any indications that they plan to. :(
 

eturn23

Member
I have the same issue. When I power up the gimbal the red light on the GoPro comes on, but the camera's screen does not. I have to manually turn the camera on and then hit record before I fly my quad copter. There is a setting on the GoPro to make it automatically start recording by just turning it on, but I would rather have manual start/stop control of the camera separate from camera power.
 


Rainman

Member
Hi Guys,

I’m new here but I’ve been playing around with a few different camera gimbals including cheap servo driven efforts and more recently the Aeroxcraft brushless gimbal which work well enough for some applications and this week I managed to obtain a Zenmuse H3-2D which I’ve installed on my F550 with Wookong-M.

The Zenumuse 2D-H3 itself works excellently and appears to give a far superior level of stabilisation over the Aeroxcraft (which is simply an Arduino based solution), but then it costs twice as much and you’d expect it to be better. It’s also more compact and the wiring solution on the Zenmuse is exactly what you want … no trailing AV cables from the GoPro at all, which is a major downfall of other brushless gimbals. The major issue I found with the Aeroxcraft gimbal is that in forward flight the wind resistance of the external cables would cause the gimbal to continually glitch and reset. I tried securing the cables any number of different ways and it’s really hard to do it in such a way that they are not dangling in the wind but are also sufficiently loose enough to allow the gimbal to move freely. With the Zenmuse this is a complete non-issue and as such it works very well in fast forward flight – which is actually the main reason I bought it and so I'm satisfied with that aspect.

However … now time for the gripes … as mentioned I’m using it with a Wookong-M and the gimbal requires the X3 channel to control the pitch. Also, the ‘Return To Home’ uses X3 and it’s a feature I use quite a lot, and even if I’m not using it then knowing it’s there gives me a great deal of confidence as it is a nice safety blanket. I now no longer have access to this feature whilst the gimbal is attached. I think the Zenmuse pitch not being able to be controlled by a regular RX channel or a user-defined X2 or X3 is a major design flaw and I can’t for the life of me understand why it is essential that it’s is controlled over X3. It’s just crippled a major feature of my Wookong-M. If it’s connected then I have no choice and I can’t even lock the gimbal pitch it into a fixed position and leave it there so I can regain X3 for RTH.

DJI need to have a serious think about this. If it’s not going to be fixed in a future Wookong-M and/or Zenmuse firmware release then I will need to look for an alternative to Wookong and if that’s the case then obviously I would have to get rid of the Zenmuse too.

I’m really very disappointed by this and I’m less likely to use IOC than Return To Home. I would at least expect to be able to make a choice and I can’t. If it was possible to extend the control range thresholds for the RTH switch then I could at least program a TX mix to retain some pitch control if they are on the same X3 channel – ie, the RTH could be trigged if the gimbal was made to go into the last few degrees of pointing upwards.

Anyone have any work-arounds for this?

Phil
 

plingboot

Member
You just need to create a mix on your radio which forces the flightmode into the FAILSAFE area and assign that to a spare switch on the radio - when activated it adds/subtracts x% travel to that channel.

Once set-up you can see it working in the TX monitor pane of WKM assistant. When you activate the mix the flightmode monitor bar should show "FAILSAFE".

This is an 'in radio' solution, doesn't require the use of an additional channel and is completely independent of the WKM controls and X1, X2, X3 assignments.

It's what many folks did before DJI added a specific RTH control option to the WKM set-up.
 
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+1... I was going to say the same thing.
For me, the most useless feature of the Wookong is the X3 assignment to Return To Home because the system already has the built in with the other inputs. It's just a redudant feature.
I can't find it right now, but on YouTube there are several videos detailing how to setup Failsafe (i.e. return to home) using the U input and that is what everyone I know uses. It not only serves as manual execution of return to home, but also gives you the loss of transmitter backup mode. X3 doesn't give you that second feature. Well, I guess it *could* be setup that way.
 

Rainman

Member
I neglected to say that I'm using the flight mode setting combination of 'manual', 'atti' and 'gps' so thats not going to work unless I ditch the manual setting. I guess I could do that as my intention is to primarily use my F550 as an AP platform and I guess I'll never use the manual flight mode in reality.

I'll do that. Thanks for the advice. Now you mention it I can see that the X3 RTH feature is a little pointless. I guess I intentionally set it the way I have it so I had the maximum available flight modes available, but I guess I don't need them all.
 

plingboot

Member
are you sure you're using the WKM and not the naza?

as far as i'm aware, and i fly both naza and wkm equipped multis, it's the naza's latest firmware which gives the option to swap manual for RTH and this ISN'T what i'm suggesting you do.

either way the radio mix RTH set-up will have no effect on available flightmodes. It simply shifts the U signal transmitted from the radio by X% to put the flightmode into the failsafe area.

it has nothing to do with the actual set-up of the flightcontroller or it's modes.
 

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